Question For Xeno

[old] Mel Harbour · Post by **[old] Mel Harbour** » November 15th, 2005, 12:49 pm

Quick warning first of all - this topic is going to be almost totally irrelevant to anyone who doesn't row on the water!<br /><br />Xeno,<br /><br />What do you think the best way to coach blade entry into the water is? You mention on your website the way that Harry Mahon used to coach it (Go...Go...). Do you think that's the most effective way to coach it, and if so, what do you think the best way to practise it from a coach's perspective is?<br /><br />Mel

[old] Xeno · Post by **[old] Xeno** » November 15th, 2005, 4:26 pm

Hi Mel<br />From a motor skill point of view it is easier to teach a rower the efficient blade entry by using a stable platform. I do not think that the single scull is a stable enough platform for a beginning rower to learn efficient blade entry. <br />I think that the catch drill is great. Just using the first quater of the leg drive. Setting the blade just in time before pushing the legs. This is done on the square. Keep repeating it. I am sure you know this exercise.<br />Also a very nice exercise is to hold a scull oar in one arm only and row while the other hand is tucked away behind. This can't be done in the single but is absolutely great in the double scull. The sculler learns to wait for the "suspension" before truly driving to accelerate.<br />There are more. <br />Let me know what you think.

[old] Mel Harbour · Post by **[old] Mel Harbour** » November 16th, 2005, 6:00 am

It's quite an interesting challenge to coach. It's such a fine line between raising the hands too early and slowing the boat (and indeed the entry) down, and raising them too late and missing water. It's also tricky to coach as it's very easy for them to think 'move the hands quickly' but in reality just move the feet quickly into frontstops etc.<br /><br />Mel

[old] Byron Drachman · Post by **[old] Byron Drachman** » November 16th, 2005, 9:38 am

<table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>It's quite an interesting challenge to coach. </td></tr></table> <br /><br />Hi Xeno, Mel,<br /><br />As you know, it's also a challenge to learn. Being a novice on-the-water rower, I'm very interested in discussions like this. <br /><br /><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>Also a very nice exercise is to hold a scull oar in one arm only and row while the other hand is tucked away behind. This can't be done in the single but is absolutely great in the double scull. The sculler learns to wait for the "suspension" before truly driving to accelerate. </td></tr></table> <br /><br />Xeno, so this explains the drill mentioned on your website where you row in circles I suppose. I take it you set the boat with one oar and row with the other if you're in a single. <br /><br />I have a related question about the bladework at the other end: when I watch you rowing on water at the introduction of your first DVD, your hands are so quick at the finish that I can't tell for sure. Do you keep the blades completely square until they have cleared the water, or do you start feathering once they're coming out of the water? It appears to me that there is an gradual increase in height of the blades during the recovery. Is that right? <br /><br />Many thanks.<br /><br />Byron<br /><br />

[old] Mel Harbour · Post by **[old] Mel Harbour** » November 16th, 2005, 10:08 am

<table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE(Byron Drachman @ Nov 16 2005, 08:38 AM)</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>I have a related question about the bladework at the other end: when I watch you rowing on water at the introduction of your first DVD, your hands are so quick at the finish that I can't tell for sure. Do you keep the blades completely square until they have cleared the water, or do you start feathering once they're coming out of the water? It appears to me that there is an gradual increase in height of the blades during the recovery. Is that right? <br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br /><br />You should practise rowing the finish totally square (releasing with the blades square). In the end, the blades should feather slightly as they release the water, but most people fall heavily on the side of not holding the blades square long enough rather than feathering too late!<br /><br />As far as the recovery goes, opinions vary a bit, but the way I would generally describe it is as being slightly dish shaped (imagine taking the cross section of a saucer or something). After the release, the hands should push downwards slightly as they move away. They then need to be heading back up again towards the end of the recovery.<br /><br />Mel

[old] Xeno · Post by **[old] Xeno** » November 16th, 2005, 10:10 am

Hi<br />Another thing I mention when coaching is that putting the blade in the water is part of the recovery.<br />XENO

[old] Ray79 · Post by **[old] Ray79** » November 16th, 2005, 1:28 pm

Ah yes, the joys of rowing first quarter of the slide.Am always made to do this to help me sharpen my catch. Gets <u><b>really</b></u> sore on the hamstrings and quads after a while. Another good tip I have heard (well it is for sweep rowing anyway) is to use the inside of your thumb on your inside/feathering hand to "flick" the blade in at the catch. When its done with the inner hand the distance your hand has to travel is very small and therefore feels quicker.<br /><br /><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE(Xeno @ Nov 16 2005, 09:10 AM)</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>Hi<br />Another thing I mention when coaching is that putting the blade in the water is part of the recovery.<br />XENO <br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br />Xeno, when you say this do you mean that the catch should be seen as the last part of the recovery? That is to say that the whole stroke is one continuous movement, no breaks or pauses. <br />I also think that a slight bit of backsplash at the catch helps with the feel of connection with the water before the leg drive, and so helps to eliminate missed water. What do you think?

[old] PaulS · Post by **[old] PaulS** » November 16th, 2005, 1:58 pm

<table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE(Ray79 @ Nov 16 2005, 09:28 AM)</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>I also think that a slight bit of backsplash at the catch helps with the feel of connection with the water before the leg drive, and so helps to eliminate missed water. What do you think? <br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br />Just don't start getting backsplash for the sake of backsplash. Unless you don't care for the guy 2 seats away and want to piss them off. <br /><br />The reason the backsplash happens is that the blade is entering the water at the instant that it is stationary to the hull, and since the hull is moving forward relative to the water, a small bit of water is kicked up (actually "sidesplash"), if you feel this at the handle you are smacking the heck out of the water and are early, also risking a crab due to the blade being knocked off square. Remember, the sleeve is up against the aft surface of the oarlock (away from the pin) when being planted properly, and the blade will be completely buried by the time the sleeve meets the pin. "Flicking" anything seems like a bad thing to me, just place the blade and drive.<br /><br />I have rowers do a drill where the purpose is to place the blade fully and then drive in a very seperated fashion, but ensuring the proper order of the sequence. This is the opposite of "rowing in" and is probably less than a 1/10th sec delay. The rower doing it well will feel the sleeve travel across the oarlock and hit the pin, along with immediate connection. After that can be done, the rower can smooth out the process so that there is no noise at the oarlock.

[old] Xeno · Post by **[old] Xeno** » November 16th, 2005, 2:09 pm

Hi Ray<br />Where do you row and who is your coach? Did you get some of this information from you national rowing federation? I feel like a huniting dog picking up a scent. My former coaches and my own analysis, gave me a clear road map on how to feel, see, and understands the bio mechanics/motor skills required for efficient power application and maximize boat run.<br />You have very good points. Thumbs etc...<br />The hamstrings etc.<br />I am very curious in finding out who brought you this knowledge, because it is not as common around here. The hamstrings are most important to bring yourself back to the catch. Too many people use the hip flexors, and that is the foundation to back strain. <br />There is no pause anywhere in a stroke cycle.<br /><br />Hi Byron<br />The goal is to take the blade out square. Figuratively speaking, it is not balck and white, and there is a some grey area. If the blade is "taken out" before it is lifted out of the water on the square, it is usual to see finishes that are drawn out and non efficient for the movement of the boat.<br />On the DVD the water was a little rough and I needed to make sure that I had enough room to square the blade before I rise the hands to drop the blade in. Here if the blade is not square on time, it leads rowers to rise the blade to square, and it is called skying. Ideally, the blade is taken out on the square, feathered, squared once the arms are straight at the elbow-past the knees, the blade remains throughout the recovery at a height that gives the possibility to square the blade at any time. <br /><br />Got to go.<br />

[old] Ray79 · Post by **[old] Ray79** » November 16th, 2005, 3:28 pm

<table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE(PaulS @ Nov 16 2005, 12:58 PM)</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE(Ray79 @ Nov 16 2005, 09:28 AM)</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>I also think that a slight bit of backsplash at the catch helps with the feel of connection with the water before the leg drive, and so helps to eliminate missed water. What do you think? <br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br />Just don't start getting backsplash for the sake of backsplash. Unless you don't care for the guy 2 seats away and want to piss them off. <br /><br />The reason the backsplash happens is that the blade is entering the water at the instant that it is stationary to the hull, and since the hull is moving forward relative to the water, a small bit of water is kicked up (actually "sidesplash"), if you feel this at the handle you are smacking the heck out of the water and are early, also risking a crab due to the blade being knocked off square. Remember, the sleeve is up against the aft surface of the oarlock (away from the pin) when being planted properly, and the blade will be completely buried by the time the sleeve meets the pin. "Flicking" anything seems like a bad thing to me, just place the blade and drive.<br /><br />I have rowers do a drill where the purpose is to place the blade fully and then drive in a very seperated fashion, but ensuring the proper order of the sequence. This is the opposite of "rowing in" and is probably less than a 1/10th sec delay. The rower doing it well will feel the sleeve travel across the oarlock and hit the pin, along with immediate connection. After that can be done, the rower can smooth out the process so that there is no noise at the oarlock. <br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br />Thanks for the explanations Paul. When I said backsplash, i did mean the slightest amount, not the soaking of the guy behind me. They are all bigger than me so I tend not to want to piss them off . I think when i said "flicking" i chose the wrong word. More that its a sharp snappy movement at the catch, with a definate "plop" sound. I'll think about some of the other things you mention when on my outing on saturday.<br /><br /><br /><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE(Xeno @ Nov 16 2005, 01:09 PM)</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>Hi Ray<br />Where do you row and who is your coach? Did you get some of this information from you national rowing federation? I feel like a huniting dog picking up a scent. My former coaches and my own analysis, gave me a clear road map on how to feel, see, and understands the bio mechanics/motor skills required for efficient power application and maximize boat run.<br />You have very good points. Thumbs etc...<br />The hamstrings etc.<br />I am very curious in finding out who brought you this knowledge, because it is not as common around here. The hamstrings are most important to bring yourself back to the catch. Too many people use the hip flexors, and that is the foundation to back strain. <br />There is no pause anywhere in a stroke cycle. <br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br />Hi Xeno,<br />I row in Ireland for a VERY Small local club (4 Senior men, 2 senior women, and a whole host of beginners - Must have been the silver medal the Irish guys won at the World Rowing Champs). I am currently coached by one of the guys who rows with me in the 4. He has been rowing since school so has a lot of experience and I think that he is in the boat with us allows him to "feel" more of what is going on. I know it has helped my ability to stroke a boat greatly, as my catch was slow by comparison to what it is now.<br />Prior to this I was studying in Southampton in England - Where I started to row and was coached by a fellow student - who again had rowed in school for a few years. We had visits from various others from time to time mainly to help out coming up to big races.<br />Im not sure where they gained their knowledge from, but I have always take the 1/4 slide drill as a basic catch exercise as it is one of the first stationary exercises we did when I was a Novice. Some of it in the rowing tank, and discomfort was the name of the game .<br /><br />I think the point you make about the hamstrings being important for bringing yourself back to the catch is interesting also. I do this rather than throw my weight forward on the body over, a genal body over position, reaching past the knees, and then hamstrings to control my slide speed seems to work for me. Have been doing a lot of low rate exercises recently, and this form also helps in the control of the rates i feel. <br /><br />Thanks for the feedback.

[old] Slow Boat · Post by **[old] Slow Boat** » November 17th, 2005, 12:05 pm

For you on-the-water experts (Xeno, Paul S, etc.) what is the best way to feather the sculls?<br /><br />Is it better to grip the sculls firmly and rotate by dropping the wrists at the release<br /><br />or<br /><br />Should one keep the wrists in line with the arm and rotate the sculls by rolling the handles with the fingers?<br /><br />Thanks for any and all advise!

[old] Mel Harbour · Post by **[old] Mel Harbour** » November 17th, 2005, 12:17 pm

<table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE(Slow Boat @ Nov 17 2005, 11:05 AM)</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>For you on-the-water experts (Xeno, Paul S, etc.) what is the best way to feather the sculls?<br /><br />Is it better to grip the sculls firmly and rotate by dropping the wrists at the release<br /><br />or<br /><br />Should one keep the wrists in line with the arm and rotate the sculls by rolling the handles with the fingers?<br /><br />Thanks for any and all advise! <br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br />Xeno's a fairly typical sculler in the way his hands move.<br /><br />He drops the wrists briefly to feather the oars, but then lets them rise again as his hands move away, so that by the time he gets to about hands away, his wrists are nearly flat again. This helps when he reaches the crossover, as he's got space to keep his hands a little closer together. He's actually moderately inconsistent (in the videos I've seen) in the way he performs the crossover. He broadly crosses with one hand directly above the other, but it varies a bit one way and the other.<br /><br />The 'raised wrist' position allows him to then square up by having a sense of 'pushing the knuckles forwards' as he approaches the catch. This helps with squaring without skying the blades. If you have to raise the wrist near the catch it tends to push the handle down, and the blades up.<br /><br />Of course this all changes a little bit once he's rating higher. At race pace, you'll tend to notice he doesn't manage to raise his wrists quite as much during the recovery - it's all happening a bit too fast! This is also true in slightly choppier conditions - any time he feels like he needs to hang onto the handles a bit more securely.<br /><br />Mel

[old] PaulS · Post by **[old] PaulS** » November 17th, 2005, 12:59 pm

<table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE(Slow Boat @ Nov 17 2005, 08:05 AM)</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>For you on-the-water experts (Xeno, Paul S, etc.) what is the best way to feather the sculls?<br /><br />Is it better to grip the sculls firmly and rotate by dropping the wrists at the release<br /><br />or<br /><br />Should one keep the wrists in line with the arm and rotate the sculls by rolling the handles with the fingers?<br /><br />Thanks for any and all advise! <br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br />Feathering requires so little work (physical effort) that I can't imagine using the words "firm grip" in describing how it should be done. If the wrist drops before the handle height is changed it gives much less room for a clean extraction of the blade. Notice that you can rotate the wrist down and not change the handle height at all, which would lead to a difficult extraction. I suggest that the wrist is flat right through extraction, then the back of the hand tilts to 45deg and the finger area between the knuckle and first joint assume that same flat plane the wrist had as the blade is feathered. Then as Mel describes, squaring is achieved by merely reestablishing your driving grip (first finger joints pointed directly sternward.<br /><br />My goal at the release is to get the blade out of the water quickly and cleanly, and while we like to talk in terms of "Down" "Feather" "Away" with regard to the hands, it's much more like "downfeatheraway" in practice. The most importatnt thing being the ordering of the components, slowly at first and then as proficiency increases the speed of execution will come along. Absolutely DO NOT TRY TO BE FAST, I've never seen anyone get faster when they are "trying to be fast", first make it smooth and clean, the speed will come.<br /><br />Also, the timing is extrememly crucial, there is an instant where there is no pressure on the handle (blade) and that is when it should be extracted, the better you are at maintaining pressure through the drive the more patience is required at the release since it's not exactly at the moment you run out of room, but slightly after that when the shaft has returned the energy stored in it as flex. Once again, think about this when rowing slowly and let the speed at which you can perform a clean extraction increase naturally as it becomes ingrained and reflexive.<br /><br />Remember that the same leeway that you have with the sleeve and oarlock at teh catch is there at the release, there is plenty of time to get the blade out cleanly before it can catch water and transmit that force to the handle. The source of a "crab" is generally over-feathering so the top edge catches the water, the blade dives sharply and squares itself, then you have a problem on your hands since the water is fairly unyielding to a square blade.<br /><br />Finally, if you are uncomfortable relaxing the hand during the recovery, go ahead and keep the fingers wrapped around the handle and use only 1/2 feather, the blade at 45deg instead of parallel with the water.

[old] Mel Harbour · Post by **[old] Mel Harbour** » November 18th, 2005, 6:44 am

<table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE(PaulS @ Nov 17 2005, 11:59 AM)</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE(Slow Boat @ Nov 17 2005, 08:05 AM)</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>For you on-the-water experts (Xeno, Paul S, etc.) what is the best way to feather the sculls?<br /><br />Is it better to grip the sculls firmly and rotate by dropping the wrists at the release<br /><br />or<br /><br />Should one keep the wrists in line with the arm and rotate the sculls by rolling the handles with the fingers?<br /><br />Thanks for any and all advise! <br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br />Feathering requires so little work (physical effort) that I can't imagine using the words "firm grip" in describing how it should be done. If the wrist drops before the handle height is changed it gives much less room for a clean extraction of the blade. Notice that you can rotate the wrist down and not change the handle height at all, which would lead to a difficult extraction. I suggest that the wrist is flat right through extraction, then the back of the hand tilts to 45deg and the finger area between the knuckle and first joint assume that same flat plane the wrist had as the blade is feathered. Then as Mel describes, squaring is achieved by merely reestablishing your driving grip (first finger joints pointed directly sternward.<br /><br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br />I wouldn't describe the hand position on the drive like that. I would say you should be aiming to have the proximal phalanges (the finger is made up of three 'phalanges' - proximal, intermediate and distal in that order running from knuckle to tip) vertical. Depending on hand/handle size, that may not be possible, but that's where you should be aiming. This should lead you to a position where the wrists should be slightly higher than the rest of the hand.<br /><br /><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>My goal at the release is to get the blade out of the water quickly and cleanly, and while we like to talk in terms of "Down" "Feather" "Away" with regard to the hands, it's much more like "downfeatheraway" in practice. The most importatnt thing being the ordering of the components, slowly at first and then as proficiency increases the speed of execution will come along. Absolutely DO NOT TRY TO BE FAST, I've never seen anyone get faster when they are "trying to be fast", first make it smooth and clean, the speed will come. </td></tr></table><br /><br />I'd say somewhat different. Really really emphasise the separation of the motions of 'tapping down', 'feathering' and then the hands moving away. It's all too common that people don't send the boat off the finish, as they're feathering the blade out.<br /><br /><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>Finally, if you are uncomfortable relaxing the hand during the recovery, go ahead and keep the fingers wrapped around the handle and use only 1/2 feather, the blade at 45deg instead of parallel with the water. <br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br />I wouldn't say that at all. If your hands are that tense that you can't feather, you need to do some work to get comfortable in your boat. There are lots of exercises to get you more comfortable with having a relaxed grip on the handles - ask if you're not sure.<br /><br />Mel

[old] PaulS · Post by **[old] PaulS** » November 18th, 2005, 10:14 am

<table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE(Mel Harbour @ Nov 18 2005, 02:44 AM)</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE(PaulS @ Nov 17 2005, 11:59 AM)</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE(Slow Boat @ Nov 17 2005, 08:05 AM)</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>For you on-the-water experts (Xeno, Paul S, etc.) what is the best way to feather the sculls?<br /><br />Is it better to grip the sculls firmly and rotate by dropping the wrists at the release<br /><br />or<br /><br />Should one keep the wrists in line with the arm and rotate the sculls by rolling the handles with the fingers?<br /><br />Thanks for any and all advise! <br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br />Feathering requires so little work (physical effort) that I can't imagine using the words "firm grip" in describing how it should be done. If the wrist drops before the handle height is changed it gives much less room for a clean extraction of the blade. Notice that you can rotate the wrist down and not change the handle height at all, which would lead to a difficult extraction. I suggest that the wrist is flat right through extraction, then the back of the hand tilts to 45deg and the finger area between the knuckle and first joint assume that same flat plane the wrist had as the blade is feathered. Then as Mel describes, squaring is achieved by merely reestablishing your driving grip (first finger joints pointed directly sternward.<br /><br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br /><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>I wouldn't describe the hand position on the drive like that. I would say you should be aiming to have the proximal phalanges (the finger is made up of three 'phalanges' - proximal, intermediate and distal in that order running from knuckle to tip) vertical. Depending on hand/handle size, that may not be possible, but that's where you should be aiming. This should lead you to a position where the wrists should be slightly higher than the rest of the hand. </td></tr></table><br /><br /><span style='color:green'>I know you wouldn't, but that's fine. Perhaps I should have said that the proximal phalanges should be at 45deg on the drive. I can't imagine them being perpendicular to the water, as you seem to be describing, for a couple reasons. Grip would have to be tight and forthe same reason that you don't have your wrist up when accelerating on a motorcycle the tendency would be for it to get pulled down and that can lead to "bad things" in both cases.</span><br /><br /><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>My goal at the release is to get the blade out of the water quickly and cleanly, and while we like to talk in terms of "Down" "Feather" "Away" with regard to the hands, it's much more like "downfeatheraway" in practice. The most importatnt thing being the ordering of the components, slowly at first and then as proficiency increases the speed of execution will come along. Absolutely DO NOT TRY TO BE FAST, I've never seen anyone get faster when they are "trying to be fast", first make it smooth and clean, the speed will come. </td></tr></table><br /><br /><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>I'd say somewhat different. Really really emphasise the separation of the motions of 'tapping down', 'feathering' and then the hands moving away. It's all too common that people don't send the boat off the finish, as they're feathering the blade out. </td></tr></table><span style='color:green'><br /><br />Perhaps you should describe what "sending the boat" at the finish is, because you didn't really add anything to what I was saying, in spite of "saying it differently.</span><br /><br /><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td><div class='genmed'><b>QUOTE</b></div></td></tr><tr><td class='quote'>Finally, if you are uncomfortable relaxing the hand during the recovery, go ahead and keep the fingers wrapped around the handle and use only 1/2 feather, the blade at 45deg instead of parallel with the water. <br /> </td></tr></table><br /><br />I wouldn't say that at all. If your hands are that tense that you can't feather, you need to do some work to get comfortable in your boat. There are lots of exercises to get you more comfortable with having a relaxed grip on the handles - ask if you're not sure.<br /><br />Mel <br /> </td></tr></table><br /><span style='color:green'><br />Maybe you should just read that last bit again, it had nothing to do with <br /> "If your hands are that tense", or for that matter keeping your hands tense, I can do that drill with the same relaxed grip as a regular feather, but for some it helps them to feel more comfortable, which you go on to say is would be a good thing, DOH! <br /><br />Please do describe some of the comfort building exercises.</span>

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