Restoration advice for Concept II Model D with PM3

[machine_74]

I'm in the process of brining my C2 Model D back online after about three years of non-use. Everything is in working order save for the PM3 device. It wasn't powering up, so I cleaned the connectors with baking soda and water, and replaced the batteries. The former may not have been necessary, but it fired back up! Awesome.

Now the issue: when I row, it's not registering any meters.
--I've already done the steps outlined here: https://www.concept2.com/service/monito ... stuck-zero
--I've taken the PM3 apart and verified there's no corrosion on the board.

I haven't updated the firmware, but from reading it may not solve this issue.
What are my options here, aside from purchasing another PM5 for $200?

[Citroen]

Have you checked continuity for the flywheel sensor?
Have you checked the 2.5mm jack hasn't pulled away from the circuit board?

Does the PM3 remember settings if you take the batteries out for five minutes (or less)? There's a super cap on the original PM3s that is supposed to hold enough charge to keep the RAM alive.

[machine_74]

Love the icon.
To your points, I have checked on the 2.5mm jack and it fits fine.
I have a data card inserted and it remembered my stats, and without it, it still had the presets. I just had to put in the date/time etc.

How does one check for the continuity for the flywheel sensor? I have a feeling that could be it.

[Citroen]

Just beep it out with your multimeter. It doesn't matter what the resistance reads as long as it's not open circuit.

[Carl Watts]

Just beep it out with your multimeter. It doesn't matter what the resistance reads as long as it's not open circuit.

Its a total pain to check with a meter Citroen, its all covered in a conformal coating on the connector and its really hard to get a decent connection. C2 really should have used a standard type of PCB connector here so the lead was easy to swap out with a new one because its only ever the lead that fails. I notice they finally did just that with the ErgBike cable.

Could be the lead that has failed but if it was working before its still more likely there is some corrosion on the board between the rubber keypad a the board that's taken out the TACH output.

What's the serial number of the PM3 ? its on the back and also in the Product ID screen. What's the firmware version ? This will tell me what version of PM3 it is, the early version had corrosion issues.

My guess is you don't have a second gen PM3, these were ultra reliable as the board changed completely with the new micro.

[machine_74]

Serial #200003417
PM3 Loader Info:
8100-000010-230 8200-000025-230
PM3 Application Info:
8100-000009-061 8200-000022-061
PM3 Font Info:
8100-000014-104 8200-000039-104
PM3 Screen Info:
09/26/2003 10:55 0.110
PM3 Hardware Info:
200003417 3252003
7200-000056-310 Model D

Ver 61

I swear this was a Model D, but it's the light blue kind with the gray and blue fan cover, which is a Model C. The phrase "Model D" appears on this screen so that's why I thought I had a "D". Regardless, those are my numbers.

[Slothful1]

I swear this was a Model D, but it's the light blue kind with the gray and blue fan cover, which is a Model C. The phrase "Model D" appears on this screen so that's why I thought I had a "D". Regardless, those are my numbers.

That sounds like the original Model D. I bought mine in 2004, and the fan cage is a lighter blue (although mine has faded towards light grey), and a very obvious outside blue side panel for controlling the damper. The Model C had a more recessed side panel that looks quite different. There are pictures on the C2 website if you want to double-check.

Dave

[Citroen]

Just beep it out with your multimeter. It doesn't matter what the resistance reads as long as it's not open circuit.

Its a total pain to check with a meter Citroen, its all covered in a conformal coating on the connector and its really hard to get a decent connection. C2 really should have used a standard type of PCB connector here so the lead was easy to swap out with a new one because its only ever the lead that fails. I notice they finally did just that with the ErgBike cable.

I meant beep it at the 2.5mm jack, Ring vs tip, ring vs sleeve, sleeve vs tip.

[Citroen]

I swear this was a Model D, but it's the light blue kind with the gray and blue fan cover, which is a Model C. The phrase "Model D" appears on this screen so that's why I thought I had a "D". Regardless, those are my numbers.

Just stare at the fan cage and it's obvious which model you've got.
https://www.concept2.com/service/indoor-rowers

[machine_74]

It's one of the earlier model D's then. Tried it again last night, doesn't register any distance or time. I don't have any equipment to test electrical connections.

[Cyclist2]

Just stare at the fan cage and it's obvious which model you've got.

Right, 99.9% of the time. I refurbished a "model D" based on looking at the fan cage, but it was a model C with a D fan cage only, which became obvious once the cage was removed. Someone in the past had cannabalized a few machines to get one good one (and I did the same thing with all the various parts I was given). The cage fit perfectly, no indication of a jury-rig.

It's amazing how these machines hold up even with abuse, can be repaired fairly easily, and can stand some, uh, modifications and still work great.

[machine_74]

So, assuming I have an older model D (the model C does not look like mine, nor does the "newer" model D), Concept support is suggesting I replace the generator base coil.

https://shop.concept2.com/parts/102-pow ... &results=1

It doesn't look that difficult and for $20 and it restores my rower, I think that's a win. Do you guys concur with the assessment?

[machine_74]

I suppose I could take the current one apart and verify the connections and see if that works first.

[Tsnor]

It's one of the earlier model D's then. Tried it again last night, doesn't register any distance or time. I don't have any equipment to test electrical connections.

A good, solid multi-meter is $20 (example: i have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DW ... UTF8&psc=1) If it shows a good signal from your current generator then the meter paid for itself, and you don't need to order the part.

Trouble with replacing parts without being able to test is sometimes new parts don't work and sometimes you mess something else up replacing a part so you end up with multiple failures and no way to make forward progress.

Someone (Carl? Citroen? Nomath? anyone? ) could tell you what a known good generator looks like when you probe the end of the cable while spinning flywheel. (what to set the mult-meter to, what numbers to expect as you slowly rotate the flywheel) That could tell you if the generator is bad, or point you more towards a failed PM3.

Here is a post from Nomath with generator signals. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=194719

[machine_74]

Thanks, I'll take a look at all this. I agree about the troubleshooting. First step is to clean it and see what's going on under the housing where the cable runs in.