A Comfortable Seat

[Blaze]

Blaze, once you get your C/R or whatever option you choose, let us know how you find it.

I was all set on getting the Citius Remex, but my son's puppy visits regularly, and the C/R looked like it might make a fun and expensive chew toy for him. So I purchased the "Perfoarmance Rowing Seat Top" from Revolution Rowing, and it showed up a couple of days ago. Installation is a bit different than the Concept 2 seat, but I used wood screws in the carriage mounting holes, and it seems sturdy enough for now. The C2 seat has threaded sleeves that accept bolts, which I can try to replicate should the current installation fail.

I installed it today and gave it a 5K spin.

Impressions:
1) Its footprint is smaller than that of the stock seat, a half-inch narrower and 2 1/2 inches less fore/aft ... maybe a touch thinner, but the topography makes that difficult to quantify. Both rollers protrude, but it didn't create an issue for today's row.
2) The "curviness" of the seat is more pronounced. I see this as a good thing, since more of a cutout in the back is what I sought.
3) I'm not sure I care for the amount of upward flare beneath the legs. I suppose it's a necessity to get the depth that people want for relief of the sitz bones, but I was OK with that part of the stock seat design. I hear that for many, the amount of depression is the particular issue they hope to address. As for me, I had to adjust a few times, so it wouldn't feel like it was applying pressure to my hamstrings that would become bothersome.
4) Overall, I think I'll enjoy the change. It took a few minutes to get to a position I was happy with, but it was dialed in within 1,000 meters and felt good for the rest of the row. I assume as I use it more it will be much quicker to find the "sweet spot." If something alarming comes along on longer rows, I'll speak up.

[mict450]

I purchased the "Perfoarmance Rowing Seat Top" from Revolution Rowing, and it showed up a couple of days ago. Installation is a bit different than the Concept 2 seat, but I used wood screws in the carriage mounting holes, and it seems sturdy enough for now. The C2 seat has threaded sleeves that accept bolts, which I can try to replicate should the current installation fail.

Blaze, I would just use it with the wood screws in place. If you've ever worked with threaded inserts, they can be a bitch to install dead nuts plumb & perpendicular to a surface, even if you use a drill press. Add to that the contours of the seat top would require shimming to at least get it close to level to use a drill press.

I've used wood screws on mine & they hold up just fine. I did have to loosen the screws just a bit to ensure the seat carriage slid up & down the rail freely without binding.

Glad that seat is working well for you so far. That marbling finish is really quite attractive!

[Blaze]

Eric, thanks for the reassurance. I'm glad I chose not to overcomplicate it ... something I've heard I have a tendency to do.

You're right about the look of the seat. It's pretty slick

[mict450]

Eric, thanks for the reassurance. I'm glad I chose not to overcomplicate it ... something I've heard I have a tendency to do.

I hear you...always best to keep the KISS principle in mind.

If the screw holes get buggered....well, that's why JB Weld was invented.

[whp4]

Blaze, I would just use it with the wood screws in place. If you've ever worked with threaded inserts, they can be a bitch to install dead nuts plumb & perpendicular to a surface, even if you use a drill press. Add to that the contours of the seat top would require shimming to at least get it close to level to use a drill press.

A trick that sometimes is useful in situations like this is to clamp your workpiece to the underside of the table, assuming you have a table with an opening under the spindle axis and enough length — may be easier to clamp than shim. But even easier (and more durable!) would be to just use a slab of aluminum with some holes drilled and tapped for mounting, maybe mill out some spots for the sit bones…you’ll be highly motivated to row quickly to get off the seat sooner

[staehpj1]

I find that the Model D seat is pretty bad. As a long time cyclist my experience tells me padding is not a great answer, more of a band aid, but I found that putting on a cheap pad with sit bone holes was good enough. Ideally I'd carve a nice wooden seat with no padding, but my wife would declare the machine unusable.

I have toyed with making something that would swap quickly, but given how infrequently she uses it I'd stop bothering and she'd stop using the machine altogether. I don't want to discourage her so I'll probably just live with the D seat with a pad unless it becomes unacceptable.

[chrisT]

Seat comfort comes up occasionally on this 200 forum, as well as other vehicle forums I participate in. I honestly have never understood why someone would buy any vehicle with seats they considered uncomfortable. Seat comfort is a VERY individual thing and to buy a vehicle with seats that don't fit or hurt and then complain about it seems very strange to me. I guess I'm just too practical, but seat comfort is near the top of my list for determining what to buy.
I am 5'8" little over 200lb. I drive at least twice a month about 235 miles one way 3 1/2 hours then back again a day or two later. At least once a year we go about 750 miles one way about 11 hours then back about 2 to 3 weeks later. I have no real complaints about the seats in 2016 LC. These are more comfortable than the 2006 Honda Pilot that we used before the LC those seats were fine. I had 183K miles on that ride when we traded it on LC in 2018. I like my seats in my 1997 T100 but my wife never has. I wonder what height and weight folks are that don't like the LC seats.

[mict450]

Hmmm?!! Never would consider calling my erg a vehicle. I think you've got your forums mixed up, mate.