Model B refresh

[CANNON-FODDER]

Hi. I purchased a Model B for $80 and I would like to get it going again. The previous owner said she had it for ~15 years and used it a bit this summer. However it was stored in a outbuilding.

I am not a "gym person" but this is the only thing I would consistently use when I make it, so the expected use pattern is not for someone who is going to hammer on it.

I am reasonably mechanically competent, although I am a visual learner (I need to see it operate to understand it). I have printed the manual, although it is sitting on the printer (I have a 1yo and a 2yo and a COVID puppy that turned out to be 1/2 Pit so things are bouncy/exciting).

As much as I want to clean this to standard, I am loathe to take things apart unnecessarily because I hate trying to align them going back together (that's the unreasonable part). One of the threads mentions alignment (pinching?) issues on the Model B when taking the flywheel off. So I would not want to venture there without cause, but I don't know how to check acceptable play/tolerances (I probably have a runout gauge here somewhere, but the lathe was really my father's and it's been ages since I messed with it).

I haven't tried the monitor at all.

The hub is rusted on the outside, although the flywheel seems to spin up and run for a fairly long time.

I know I need a new chain, I suspect the bungie cord. However, I don't know if I should just get the "skewer" assembly. I thought replacing the chain would also mean the sprockets, I have not really given the sprocket a good look (my eyes aren't what they used to be), it's on the inside one now.

I oiled everything, letting it seep a day or two might help, but nope. There are around seven rough/skip places on a test pull or two but I am not sure how much is from the chain.

The return mechanism seems ok. It pulls back and still has a little tension at the handle hook, it doesn't have much beyond that. The cord doesn't seem to be showing all that much wear.

I see the parts kit for wear items, although those items don't seem to be worn. The seat rollers don't seem to be that different than the ones in the gym. Can't say I looked at the bottom of the chain guide though I have it in a picture now.

Can you help me figure out what parts are needed? Is there a Do I need to replace the sprockets with the chain? Do I need the full skewer kit or just maybe a cord and chain guide?

I put most of this in an e-mail to the info e-mail, but just checking here as well.

I have pictures, but just realized I might have to meet a post quota before loading.

Thanks,

Merry Christmas!

I have never tried this (used to uploading to forum itself) and it doesn't seem to let me make an account.

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[Tsnor]

Open back of monitor now and get the batteries out. If it's old they are likely leaking.

Your post and pictures came through fine. Someone who knows more will comment on the required maintenance when they see this.

[c2jonw]

Wow, that's a great deal and it looks pretty good.
* Definitely pull the batteries and look for corrosion and leakage. If it looks reasonably ok get 3 #357 Silver Oxide batteries and give it a try. It should come on with a button press or by rowing.
* I would remove the skewer and remove the chain to give it a thorough soaking, scrubbing, cleaning and relube. Tight links can be loosened with a little lateral force. I think the chain is worth salvaging to avoid having to replace the sprockets. Inspect the traveling pulley and chain slide- replace if needed.
* Get a new shock cord- they're cheap and a new one will have a better elasticity feel.
* Get at least one new seat roller with hardware. The one shown looks pretty bad- it's the rear one which does see the highest loading- you can move the bottom roller (which sees very little load) into one of the top positions.
* Not sure why the front of the monorail looks so cruddy compared to the back- some serious dust being kicked up by the flywheel....

Good luck with it. If I think of anything else I'll let you know.....

[JoeCruse]

I would definitely replace shock cord and seat rollers. If I remember correctly, I had to pull the chain on the model B I bought several years ago and lube it and "work" out the stiff spots. I also ended up buying the rollers for the front base, to make it easy to move the rower around.
I was lucky that the PO had removed the batteries from the PM1. One of the mounting brackets is broken, but it still mounts to the cage ans still runs just fine.

I'm actually looking to buy the PM5 upgrade for the B, so if your PM1 is toast and you want to replace on the cheap, post here and I might be able to hook you up.

[CANNON-FODDER]

… get the batteries out. …

… #357 Silver Oxide batteries … I think the chain is worth salvaging to avoid having to replace the sprockets.

Thank you!

I did check the battery compartment first thing, it was empty and the quick look did not see corrosion. She had stored it somewhere else although it is just as dirty. I have lots of generic #357 (they power the kids' LED glow-sticks) I will look to see if any are Silver Oxide.

I had pretty much given up on the chain, but I was afraid the answer would be sprockets with chain. So I will do as you say.

It looks like I should get the maintenance kit to cover the shock cord and seat rollers.

Thanks again!

[dsamant]

If you are getting the maintenance kit, I would recommend ordering the wind damper ring B kit for ~ $12 (part #372), foot caster left and right kit for $7 (part # 1809). They don't cost a lot and will improve the experience on the rower ownership.

[CANNON-FODDER]

… I think the chain is worth salvaging to avoid having to replace the sprockets. Inspect the traveling pulley and chain slide- replace if needed. …

… the wind damper ring B kit for ~ $12 (part #372), foot caster left and right kit for $7 (part # 1809). …

Thanks! Hope everyone had a wonderful holiday!

The traveling pulley and chain slide actually look new. And I don't know what the tolerances are, but the main sprockets don't seem worn either, certainly not like some of the ones on minibikes as kids.

The part of the chain inside the rail looks brand new as well.

The monitor turns on, although it did not respond to a little finger spin of the flywheel (I found the batteries after I took the chain off).

Gallery:
https://postimg.cc/gallery/2rNk4Dn

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[dsamant]

Nice! You did a great job cleaning it up and great close-up photos! It is great news the monitor is operational. maybe the pickup wire/mechanism might be faulty if it does not capture the meters.

I would recommend skipping the maintenance package and just getting what you need a la carte.

[pep]

Hi! I also recently picked up a Model B (no monitor, but only $50)! It's overall in great shape, and feels good to use, but it's my first one, so I don't have any other reference point for what it should feel like. I was wondering about this: "One of the threads mentions alignment (pinching?) issues on the Model B when taking the flywheel off." Is this about chain alignment? My chain seems to be at an angle.

I love this thing so far, but just trying to figure out what parts to update and what works is definitely a little intimidating. This thread is helpful, so thanks!

[CANNON-FODDER]

… I was wondering about this: "One of the threads mentions alignment (pinching?) issues on the Model B when taking the flywheel off." Is this about chain alignment? My chain seems to be at an angle. …

Hi! Congratulations.

Hopefully someone answers in your thread, that wasn't mentioned in the threads I was referring to:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=191889
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=188733&start=15#p491660

[pep]

@CANNON-FODDER thank you!

[JoeCruse]

If you have some roofing paper around, or some inner tubes, you can make your own wind damper and get most of your cage "enclosed", in order to be able to lower the Drag Factor more like the newer models (which have enclosed cages). I just did this a month or so ago, and really like it.

[CANNON-FODDER]

Happy New Year! And thanks for all the help!

It seems the monitor works, yay! Although I definitely felt the fact that I haven't really been in the cardio side of the gym in a while...
https://postimg.cc/FfpvY0xD

Just got the new chain and shock cord installed along with cleaning up a lot of the rusted parts. After a couple hours working on the chain, there were around seven places I couldn't get moving - as in still taking pliers to move, not just a little stiff.

The sprockets do not look worn, I have cleaned them up as much as I could and tried to take a decent photo. Can anyone tell either way if they need replacement from these? (I moved the chain to the smaller sprocket for the photo, not sure I know which is the one for me)
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I am leery of taking apart the flywheel unless forced to if the alignment is sensitive (not my forte).

I haven't replaced the seat rollers yet either, but that's easier to do this afternoon with 1yo & 2yo helpers while the wife is in book club.

Gallery:
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Overall Photos.
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[c2jonw]

The sprockets look very clean and show little wear so if you can't get the chain loosened up you might be able to put a new chain on without replacing the sprockets. In general the large sprocket will provide appropriate loading.

[CANNON-FODDER]

The sprockets look very clean and show little wear so if you can't get the chain loosened up you might be able to put a new chain on without replacing the sprockets. In general the large sprocket will provide appropriate loading.

Awesome, thanks! Now just need to work the rust off the operator...

There are a couple Model B on Craigslist around Washington DC now (17 Jan 2021) for $350 and $500 (they also weren't stored in an old chicken coop) in case someone else is looking.