https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiQ0Mqlk_Lo
That Peter dude seems to know what he is talking about. It all boils down to beautiful curves
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
[/rant] As an engineer it bugs me to no end when people use the term "rating" in place of what they should say, which is "stroke rate" or, if they wanted to abbreviate, I could live with SPM [/end rant]Psychopasta wrote:Hey James, thanks for this. What is Rating?
One of the best videos I have seen is this "Pause Body Over" drill:Cyclist2 wrote:It's a technique issue. Most newbies row too fast, so not uncommon.Psychopasta wrote:I really need to work on slowing the recovery so that I get to the catch and don't pause.
Here's how I slow my rate: The drive is the same; good strong catch position, push hard with the legs, open the hips, finish with the arms. The "trick" to a slower recovery is to push the arms away quickly (you don't have to punch them forward, just a quicker away movement), then lean forward from the hips so that now you are in the catch position with your upper body. Your legs at this point are still straight. Now that you're in the catch position, you can start bending your knees as fast or slowly as you want to vary the rate. You're already set for the start of the next drive as soon as your knees are fully bent (shins vertical).
There is no pausing at either end of the stroke, it's all controlled by how fast or slow you bend your knees on the recovery.
Looks like you're off to a good start in this rowing thing, it'll come with practice. Have fun!
Yes, if you use a proper stroke setting10, drag 200 plus is impossible to use, you would go way to fast. Only a slow sloppy drive or really fast sprints, paces below 1.10 use high drag.Psychopasta wrote:Thanks again everyone. My next workout is 5mins on/2 mins rest repeated four times. We'll see how that goes!
I think I now see why Peter Dreis. says that a damper of 10 lets you be lazy with the legs. As I understand, the damped does not affect the resistance of the machine to the cable being pulled, but affects how quickly the flywheel slows down. Do a damper set on 10 slows the flywheel more, making it easier for you to 'catch up' with the flywheel at the start of the next stroke. Conversely, a damper setting of 1 means the flywheel is still spinning fast as you start the next stroke, so you really need to explode the legs to get back up to flywheel speed.
And that's why they call it 'the Catch': you are catching up with the existing momentum of the flywheel/boat at the start of the stroke. Have I got that right?
- Mark
I'm on week 14 of BPP. Starting in week 7, they will tell you to back your SPM down to 24 or below on the longer steady state rows if you're not already there. I suggest going with whatever feels comfortable while focusing on technique (including breathing) and rhythm. For me, it was originally around 21-22 for the longer pieces. For intervals, it was at or slightly over the 24SPM which will be introduced in week 7. My SPMs have gone up a bit as my form and fitness level have improved.Psychopasta wrote:Hi everyone,
So, I'm making good progress but I wanted to check about my SPM. I am sticking religiously to 21 SPM, and have started the BPP now. Pete does not give specific guidance on SPM. Should I just stick at 21, or target some other?
- Mark
No, for longer work keep the spm down, but not perse 21, mix it up a bit.Psychopasta wrote:Hi everyone,
So, I'm making good progress but I wanted to check about my SPM. I am sticking religiously to 21 SPM, and have started the BPP now. Pete does not give specific guidance on SPM. Should I just stick at 21, or target some other?
- Mark