Weird clicking noise - Model C

[BetaMO]

Hey there,

We have a Concept 2 Model C rower at work that I have started to use and it has a weird clicking noise, usually occurring during the recovery - I think.

Any ideas? This has been in a workplace fitness center for years with probably NO maintenance whatsoever, I think I saw a service tag on it from '98 from where it used to reside!

I'll try to get more info Monday, but any ideas would be greatly appreciated - with a list of parts that might be needed.

I'm thinking a new chain at the least, as the current one looks pretty gnarly! If I can, I'll try to get pictures.

Thanks,

BetaMO

[Bob S.]

Hey there,

We have a Concept 2 Model C rower at work that I have started to use and it has a weird clicking noise, usually occurring during the recovery - I think.

Any ideas? This has been in a workplace fitness center for years with probably NO maintenance whatsoever, I think I saw a service tag on it from '98 from where it used to reside!

I'll try to get more info Monday, but any ideas would be greatly appreciated - with a list of parts that might be needed.

I'm thinking a new chain at the least, as the current one looks pretty gnarly! If I can, I'll try to get pictures.

Thanks,

BetaMO

As a first step, oil the chain - if that has not been done recently.

Bob S.

[NavigationHazard]

Check also to see if the sliding plastic bottom underneath the rail (it covers the shock cords) is correctly seated. If it's flopping about it sometimes can make a quite audible clicking or clunking noise.

[Carl Watts]

Got a bit of random noise like that from My Model C of late as well. Must remove the fan cover and inspect inside to anything loose but it could be the likes of the one way clutch bearing or fan/flywheel bearings that possibly the grease has dried out with age and the ball bearings are contacting the cage they are in on acceleration or deceleration of the flywheel.

Just out of interest does someone on here know the size of the one way clutch bearing ?

I think the two flywheel bearings are R6Z ?

[BetaMO]

Hey folks, thanks for the replies! Here is my progress so far:

Monday - I oiled the chain nicely (I used Stihl Bar and Chain Oil, hehe - I gotta use what we have on site) - man was it rusty! Cleaned out a lot of dust from the flywheel area, still had a bit of the clicking. Changed the batteries, but the PM2 didn't come on - I was bummed! Noticed there is no guard on the shock cord area and the shock cord looks rather worn. Also, this is a 1995 machine if the handwritten serial is correct.

Tuesday - I noticed the damper setting was changed, so at least I know somebody else is using it! The clicking noise was MUCH reduced, it might have just been needing an oiling to loosen a link or 2 in the chain. I SMACKED the monitor around a bit and it came on - amazing! Then on my next break it didn't come on - bummer.

Wednesday - I went in early and took my HRM so I could at least get an idea of where I am when I row. Got the monitor working again after some smacks, did a nice, easy 20 minute row - I average 3:20/500 now. Really need to talk HR into upgrading to a new PM3! Clicking is pretty much gone, thinking of adjusting the shock cord to see if that does anything.

Thursday - Monitor seems to be working more reliably now, after I got it turned on during first break I didn't touch it and came back later and it automatically started as it should! Unfortunately, no other buttons work on it - can't even change the display, so it only shows the 500 meter pace, learning how to shorten that time is interesting!

- BetaMO

[Carl Watts]

Clean the battery terminals of the monitor. Use very fine 1200 grade sandpaper as a last resort, a fibreglass rework pen is the best they should be nice and shinny. Put new Alkaline batteries in it.

Rust is an insulator so any rust is a big problem.

[BetaMO]

Thanks Carl - I did notice the battery terminals were a bit rusty when I put in new batteries, I actually didn't think it would work at all! I will have to bring it home so I can take it apart and do a thorough cleaning and rust removal on it. Any hints on the buttons?

Also, what exactly does the shock cord do - I adjusted it today (shortened it more than an inch on both ends) and didn't really notice any difference, but it is probably the original so not much stretch left, hehe.

Yesterday, I ordered up a new chain, sprocket kit, chain idler pulleys, shock cord, top seat rollers, handle and heart rate receiver so this rower is going to be GREAT when I get done with it!

[Carl Watts]

The shock cord returns the handle to the cage.

As long as when you let go of the handle it has enough pull to hold the handle against the cage it is okay. The condition of the chain and sprocket has a big influence in the chain return and it should be both smooth and quiet. The Model D is quieter but the Model C with the heavier duty D.I.D chain is a little noiser.

Clean the buttons with some isopropyl alcohol and a cotton bud. Both the board and the carbon on the buttons needs a clean. You will notice the cotton bud will go black. Just clean it once and don't scrub the carbon as it will just keep coming off.

[BetaMO]

Update - sweet - got the new parts, hope to do the maintenance over the weekend, rower is still running fine after the oiling and cleaning (monitor is still running automatically without smacks, amazing!), but this should get it MUCH smoother. Hope the heart monitor receiver works. I can't believe how NICE a new handle feels in the hands after the 17 year old one, haha - I'm going to leave a notepad on the rower to get comments on the overhaul.

Will try to clean the buttons on the old PM2 as suggested, thanks Carl! If that doesn't work, I'm going to upgrade it to a PM3.



Gotta LOVE the Customer Service from Concept 2 (thanks, KC!), I can't wait to get my own and hook it up to my computer at home. I have a trial of Row Pro and it looks fun!

[russtanton]

Most often Carl's IPA cleaning technique will restore full function to older keypads. If your keypad is still sluggish, a better repair is to use a keypad repair kit such as http://www.chemtronics.com/products/pro ... &m=2&id=32. This puts a silver filled, fully conductive coating over the Shawinagin black (semi conductive) pad. It will make your keypad respond instantly.

[BetaMO]

Most often Carl's IPA cleaning technique will restore full function to older keypads. If your keypad is still sluggish, a better repair is to use a keypad repair kit such as http://www.chemtronics.com/products/pro ... &m=2&id=32. This puts a silver filled, fully conductive coating over the Shawinagin black (semi conductive) pad. It will make your keypad respond instantly.

That is VERY interesting, thanks! I'll try the IPA (I use it at work all the time) first - I can't take anything into work without a bunch of red tape (I still have to get the parts I bought approved to even bring them into the building, yet alone install 'em - haha!) - I'm sure we have something similar, if not identical to that repair coating in house somewhere.

Thanks for the idea!