pm3 + Model A + RowPro?

[shotparrot]

I recently bought a Model A for $80 and also purchased a RowPro license. Next I want to buy a PM3 retrofit kit, but the problem is Model A doesn't have "drag factor" data. So:
1. Will my RowPro software even work?
2. Will I be able to upload my data to ranking lists, since there's no way to know my drag factor?
3. Should I pitch it all and buy a newer rower?

Thanks,
Christian

[shotparrot]

FYI it works! I installed the PM3 retrofit kit to the Model A, plugged in the RowPro, and it works! I'm using the largest sprocket, as the "drag factor" seems pretty high. No idea what it is of course, but it feels like I'm rowing a rowboat. Guess I should clean 30 years of gunk off the chain huh?

[Carl Watts]

Hope you enjoy RowPro.

You can now find out your actual drag factor with the PM3, it's there as one of the menu options.

Hopefully you can set the gears to get you between 110-130 because you cannot control the airflow.

[Bob S.]

Hope you enjoy RowPro.

You can now find out your actual drag factor with the PM3, it's there as one of the menu options.

Hopefully you can set the gears to get you between 110-130 because you cannot control the airflow.

He has already reached the limit since he is on the largest sprocket, which gives the lowest drag.

The airflow can be altered, but not conveniently. The erg is already too close to the wall behind it. I have read that a the Model As are quite sensitive to having airflow obstructions around them, so the proximity of the wall and the monitor support are probably already having some effect. I assume that obstructions would lower the drag in the same way as closing the dampers on the later models.

The picture doesn't show the vanes clearly, so I don't know how many there are supposed to be. If vanes can be removed symmetrically, that might be a way of lowering the drag.

Bob S.

Addendum: I just checked the Net for the Model A and found that it has 9 vanes, so 3 could be removed without disturbing the balance. If that makes the drag too low, a smaller gear could be used.

[shotparrot]

Thanks guys. Unfortunately the Model A doesn't allow the drag factor to show on the PM3, it seems. I looked everywhere and couldn't find it. Does anyone know if there's a firmware update that would help?

[Carl Watts]

Thanks guys. Unfortunately the Model A doesn't allow the drag factor to show on the PM3, it seems. I looked everywhere and couldn't find it. Does anyone know if there's a firmware update that would help?

From the main Menu press more options then display Drag Factor. You then row and a number comes up. I'm not 100% sure it works with a Model A but give it a go. Your PM3 should also be set to Model A in the Product ID screen.

[Citroen]

Thanks guys. Unfortunately the Model A doesn't allow the drag factor to show on the PM3, it seems. I looked everywhere and couldn't find it. Does anyone know if there's a firmware update that would help?

From the main Menu press more options then display Drag Factor. You then row and a number comes up. I'm not 100% sure it works with a Model A but give it a go. Your PM3 should also be set to Model A in the Product ID screen.

I think that menu option is disabled when the PM3 is configured for a model A. It will be using a fixed drag factor value (based on having all the vanes in place) in that case (to keep the rest of the maths sane). Since the drag isn't variable there's no reason to externalise it.

An interesting experiment would be to run Chris Brett's PMI ActiveX control (or one of the other user written programs that use the CSAFE interface) to display the internal drag factor value.

[Carl Watts]

Thanks for the info. yes just checked and the Drag Factor display option is not available with the Model A.

So what happens if you select the Model B/C input option on the PM3 ?

Is it still not a 3 magnet and similar pickup on the Model A ? Sorry I'm not servicing anything that old and have only seen the monitors, however the PM1 still works on a Model C so I'm trying to figure out the key difference.

[shotparrot]

I didn't know you could change the input option for a different Model! I'll try that tonight and report back. Yes, the retrofit kit has a 3 magnet pick up.

Update: No, the PM3 does not have anyway to access/change the info about what Model it is. However I see the firmware is "311". I'll look into flashing it up or down...

[Carl Watts]

I didn't know you could change the input option for a different Model! I'll try that tonight and report back. Yes, the retrofit kit has a 3 magnet pick up.

Update: No, the PM3 does not have anyway to access/change the info about what Model it is. However I see the firmware is "311". I'll look into flashing it up or down...

All the PM3's have access to changing the Model.

It is a hidden menu in the LCD Contrast screen. Press the Change Units 3 times then the Change Display 3 times on entering the LCD contrast screen and change the input type.

This would be hidden for a reason as it stops people at gyms stuffing up the machines.

It is worth updating your firmware to version 105 if you have an older version.

[shotparrot]

Thanks Carl, I turned on the drag factor with your magic trick . Now although the drag factor displays, it jumps between 20 and 350 for each stroke! It looks like it depends on how hard and fast it's rowed (of course).

So I'm not sure how useful that would be, unfortunately, unless I calibrate myself to row with a certain intensity so I know what my own drag factor is, if that makes sense. Of course that would vary, especially as fatigue sets in etc...I need to find another rower and get a feel for what a 120 or whatever and then try to remember the feeling and take out the appropriate number of "vanes".

[Citroen]

That's because there's no way to calculate drag factor for a model A machine. That's why drag factor isn't displayed when the monitor is correctly configured for your retrofit flywheel pickup.

You may be getting numbers when it's configured for a model B but they aren't useful.

[shotparrot]

I took three "vanes" or black plastic cards out of the flywheel, thanks Bob S. So now down to 6 vanes. This lowered the drag so much I was able to drop the chain from sprocket 5 to sprocket 4. I can now row for more than 8 minutes without petering out because of rowing the equivalent of a brick

Next for me will be to go to my local rowing club and get on one of their calibrated rowers so I can get a feel for what 110 to 130 drag factor is. Then "remember" that resistance as much as possible, while driving home as fast as I can to my garage. Subjective I know, but it should get me in the ball park...

I'm also keeping an eye on Craigslist for a Model B or C rower...This tinkering is fun though. I'll also be building a handle holder (like the later models have) and a wooden frame for my laptop, over the flywheel. Also I'll be making a longer handle out of a wooden dowel.

Does anyone know if there are existing plans for building those handle holders?

[shotparrot]

So I've replaced the handle with a super wide 25" poplar handle, 1 1/4" in diameter. Things were going well until I pulled a little too hard and it cracked in the middle, where I drilled the giant 1/2" hole. So next up I'll get an oak dowel, 1 1/2" diameter and cut it shorter so it's stronger and there's less angular stress...

rowerhandle.jpg (41.81 KiB) Viewed 8579 times

[shotparrot]

After first poplar handle broke, made another 25" (what the heck) handle out of oak, 1 1/8" diameter, the only width they had at the local hardware store. Got friend to drill a more precise, centered hole for the 1/2" thick metal cylinder that attaches to the chain, along with small channel for the cotter pin. Also cut speedometer platform into two 1 1/2" wide strips and attached to bolt in frame to make handle holder, just like the fancy and expensive Model C and up rowers. Now I don't have to contort and stretch to reach the handle with one foot out of the stirrups when starting/taking a break!

In other news, ran into a local gym, created a distraction, and rowed on a modern c2 to get an idea of what 130 drag factor is. I think I'm calibrated now, based on memory...

Next project is to build a laptop stand out of plywood...