Splits appearing higher then they should be.

GLC-Will · Post by **GLC-Will** » December 12th, 2008, 8:35 pm

My parents recently bought a Model D, and I'd use it alot more often, but the splits are appearing much higher then they do on the ergs at my team's facility. At the facility all we own are Model D's. Some of them were bought this past summer and some are about a year old. The erg my parents bought and the ergs at the facility both use PM3 monitors.

I'm wondering if this could be any sort of calibration issue, or something else? I know all about the drag factor, and I make sure it's at the same DF I use when I erg during practice, so I don't think it's that.

Any input/answers?

rowland · Post by **rowland** » December 13th, 2008, 1:32 am

hi
It may help to show some examples of the differences in the times of the home erg and the gym erg.. This would help diagnose the problem better.
It is possible the monitors at the gym are set for a model C instead of a Model d. This would account for the faster times at the gym.
You can do a search for the hidden menu or one of the experts will come along help you shortly.

GLC-Will · Post by **GLC-Will** » December 13th, 2008, 1:40 am

Well, for example on the home erg... Just recently today I was doing steady state at a 22 with pressure I typically do at our boathouse(what i've been calling facility) and the splits were showing up around 2:02, 2:03 onwards. On the ergs at the boathouse, I'd be getting splits around 1:55 or so. And I don't think the monitors are set to a model C, if thats possible. I've been rowing here for 2 years, and erg times have stayed consistent for everyone as we've gotten new ergs and as people have graduated and erged elsewhere.

rowland · Post by **rowland** » December 13th, 2008, 9:54 am

Your PM3/PM4 monitor is configured wrong.

You have a monitor configured for a model B/C rower mounted on a model D/E rower. That gets the screwy results you're seeing.

From the main menu choose More Options --> Utilities --> LCD Contrast

Once on the LCD Contrast menu press [CHANGE UNITS] three times then press [CHANGE DISPLAY] three times and a hidden menu appears. Change the rower model to have the correct type and choose the OK tick button.

That will change the results your seeing and brimg them back into the normal ball park.
_________________
Dougie Lawson
45yrs, 172cm, Almost LWt.

this is how to find the hidden menu. From the times you posted it doesn't look like it is set wrong, but it is worth checking anyway.
This subject does come up from time to time. There have been new rowers rowing some world record times on a miss calculated pm3, on this board and the uk board. When the pm3 is set correctly these new rowers find out very quickly that their world record times are a myth.

Citroen · Post by **Citroen** » December 13th, 2008, 11:52 am

If the monitor is set correctly. Then the next variable to check is the drag factor. Higher drag tends to give lower splits, but is harder to sustain (which is why folks push the drag for the short course sprints).

Two machines model C or D set to the same drag factor should give comparable results (assuming all other things being equal).

I'm assuming it's not a technique issue. If you think that it could be; you should get someone at your boathouse (aka facility) to see if they can spot any technical errors that need fixing.

GLC-Will · Post by **GLC-Will** » December 13th, 2008, 1:17 pm

I always row at the same drag factor, and I checked the monitors and they're set to Model D/E. The only ergs we use are Model Ds. I'm also able to check my technique as we have a giant mirror at our boathouse and at my house, and it's not perfect, but so-so

.

rowland · Post by **rowland** » December 13th, 2008, 2:16 pm

I know all about the drag factor, and I make sure it's at the same DF I use when I erg during practice, so I don't think it's that.

I know someone is going to ask you this, so I might just as well to get it over with. Do you set the drag factor by the using the pm 3 monitor to see what your df actually is or the just adjusting the #'s on the side of the cage.

What df do you usually row at, 125, 135 145 155 etc. and do you check that # every time you row on a different model D.

GLC-Will · Post by **GLC-Will** » December 13th, 2008, 3:29 pm

I've been erging with a DF of around 110 for a while, but i've been experimenting with higher DF recently(which I was going to ask if 110 is far too low for a junior HWT, but that's for a different thread probably). But yes, I always make sure the DF is the same and I don't just set it to a damper setting on the side.

GLC-Will · Post by **GLC-Will** » December 19th, 2008, 9:48 pm

Bump.. This problem is bothering me, since it's now winter break and the only erg avaliable to me for the next 2 weeks is the one we own.

Any more ideas?

Post by **Slothful1** » December 21st, 2008, 3:36 am

Only other thing I could think of was that your parents' Model D has a much tighter shock cord (being new) than the boathouse ergs. I wouldn't have thought the tightness would cause such a drop off in splits, but perhaps it was fitted incorrectly at the factory.

It should loosen up with use, or maybe you have to go in and adjust it. The key thing is that it is still tight enough after adjusting to return the handle to the fan cage.

Dave

badocter · Post by **badocter** » December 24th, 2008, 2:38 am

Or perhaps the root cause is something other than the erg. Do you get as good air circulation around the erg at home as you do at the boathouse...is the ambient temperature the same. Do you prep the same? At the boathouse do you row alone or in groups (pushing hard always seems easier to me with others rather than by myself)? Time of day?