How often should one oil the chain??

[Bodie]

Hello all,

I just recently purchased a C2 rower and am wondering about maintenance. I'd prefer to keep it in good shape from the get go (duh!), so am curious as to how often it is recommended one oil the chain?? Any other advice about taking good care of the rower would be appreciated as well!

Cheers,

Alison

[c2jonw]

Welcome to the world of erging. Here's a maintenance link:
http://www.concept2.com/us/service/indo ... enance.asp

C2JonW

[Matty Quinn]

Is the same applicable for a model C? My chain is in need of oil, but I have been hesitant to use 3-in-1 for fear that it might damage the chain.

[BobD]

It's for all Concept 2s.

[johnlvs2run]

The c2 chain oil is the best that I've found, and nothing else that compares.

Don't use 3 in 1 oil on your chain, unless you like breathing toxic fumes while you're rowing.

[Snail Space]

I'm not convinced that the chain will come to any harm if you never oil it. The 12 ergos (of various vintages) in my son's school rowing club land training centre have been abused by daily use for many years, are never oiled (a conscious decision by the coach), and seem to function perfectly.

I haven't oiled my chain for over a year; but I do clean the slide after every use so that it always looks shiney.

Cheers
Dave

[c2jonw]

It really comes down to a question of frequency of use, power being applied by the user and the environment it's being used in. A group of powerful rowers using the machine regulary in a moist or salty environment (near an indoor pool or near the ocean) might be a worst case scenario. Throw in some contamination (sand from the ocean!!) and things can run downhill pretty quickly. The only danger in over oiling is cleanliness of the new shag carpet under the machine. The recommended procedure is meant as a guideline.
There are two wear points to consider when talking about chain lubrication.
1) The contact area between the chain and the sprocket, ie, each chain link contacts a sprocket tooth and rubs as the chain enters and exits the sprocket.
2) When the chain turns or bends over a sprocket there is internal motion and wear between the pins and the bushings that the pins go through. This wear results in elongation of the chain and accelerated sprocket wear.

Lubrication will make a significant difference in the life of the chain and sprocket, and 20 weight oil (as recommended by our chain suppliers) works significantly better than many of the hi-tech lubes on the market at a fraction of the cost. C2JonW

[Nosmo]

I'm not convinced that the chain will come to any harm if you never oil it. The 12 ergos (of various vintages) in my son's school rowing club land training centre have been abused by daily use for many years, are never oiled (a conscious decision by the coach), and seem to function perfectly.

I haven't oiled my chain for over a year; but I do clean the slide after every use so that it always looks shiney.

Cheers
Dave

The elongation and accelerated wear c2jon speaks of happens in bicycle chains. As the chain wears, less and less teeth are engaged resulting in higher friction until only one or two are transferring the power, at which point it is likely the a tooth will break. However since on multi-geared bikes the sprokets wear unevenly usually one gets skipping on a few sprockets before anything breaks. For bicycles warn chains also result in accelerated wear of the chain rings (i.e. the sprockets on the cranks), which then cause a replacement chain to wear faster.

On a bike, one does not notice the added friction because it happens slowly and is not huge but you will notice it when you put a new chain on.

To make up some reasonable numbers for well maintained equipment: you may be best off replacing your chain after 3000 miles. If you wait longer, then you will have replace both the sprockets and chain at the same time. You may even get over 8000 miles out of the chain and sprockets, but if you wait much longer then that you may have to also replace the chainrings.

The chain and sprockets on the c2 are more robust then on a bicycle. If you don't oil the chain you may not notice it at all but your times will be slightly slower and eventually the chain will skip.

[johnlvs2run]

To make up some reasonable numbers for well maintained equipment: you may be best off replacing your chain after 3000 miles.

That's about 5 million meters. I should be on my 9th chain by now.

The chain and sprockets on the c2 are more robust then on a bicycle.

Yes but a bicycle has 8 different cogs, and I think bicycle cogs are much smoother.
I've been wondering how to smooth off the C2 cogwheel so it is as smooth as one on a bicycle.
There is considerable vibration as it is.

I always keep the chain well oiled, but why would times be slightly slower without it?

[Nosmo]

To make up some reasonable numbers for well maintained equipment: you may be best off replacing your chain after 3000 miles.

That's about 5 million meters. I should be on my 9th chain by now.

If you were riding a bike you would be on your ninith chain.
Also the chain life does vary quite a bit with brand. A Campy chain will easily last twice as long as a Dura-Ace (but it will cost twice as much). Never ride in the rain and clean it after every ride and you may get 6000miles on a bike chain and cassette (i.e. a set of cogs).

The chain and sprockets on the c2 are more robust then on a bicycle.

Yes but a bicycle has 8 different cogs, and I think bicycle cogs are much smoother.
I've been wondering how to smooth off the C2 cogwheel so it is as smooth as one on a bicycle.
There is considerable vibration as it is.

8 speeds are obsolete! The top three 2009 Campagnolo groupos have 11 cogs. (and the top groupo may be available with electronic shifting)
I've got 1, 7, 9, and 10 cogs on various bikes (plus equipment and wheels for 5 & 8 speeds sitting in my garage. (yes I have too many bikes).

I haven't taken a good look at the C2 cog, but what is important is the edge of the cogs where the chain rollers contact not the sides.
The design of a bicycle chain requires flexibility and an ability to work with the front chainrings and rear cogs miss aligned, it must shift smoothly under power be tolerant to very dirty conditions, and be light weight. None of these are issues with the erg, hence a much simpler and beefier chain on the erg resulting in much longer life.

The way almost everyone uses an erg, the power output is not subject to very many sudden increases. Racing bikes are very often subject to sudden large changes in power which is hard on the chain especially when one is in a gear where the chain rings and cogs are not in direct alignment (i.e. most of the time).

I always keep the chain well oiled, but why would times be slightly slower without it?

It would be slightly slower with a warn out chain and sprocket. When they wear, they are not well matched resulting in more friction. It is not a big effect but it is enough to be noticeable on a bike.

[Snail Space]

I'm not convinced that the chain will come to any harm if you never oil it. The 12 ergos (of various vintages) in my son's school rowing club land training centre have been abused by daily use for many years, are never oiled (a conscious decision by the coach), and seem to function perfectly.

I haven't oiled my chain for over a year; but I do clean the slide after every use so that it always looks shiney.

Cheers
Dave

The elongation and accelerated wear c2jon speaks of happens in bicycle chains. As the chain wears, less and less teeth are engaged resulting in higher friction until only one or two are transferring the power, at which point it is likely the a tooth will break. However since on multi-geared bikes the sprokets wear unevenly usually one gets skipping on a few sprockets before anything breaks. For bicycles warn chains also result in accelerated wear of the chain rings (i.e. the sprockets on the cranks), which then cause a replacement chain to wear faster.

On a bike, one does not notice the added friction because it happens slowly and is not huge but you will notice it when you put a new chain on.

To make up some reasonable numbers for well maintained equipment: you may be best off replacing your chain after 3000 miles. If you wait longer, then you will have replace both the sprockets and chain at the same time. You may even get over 8000 miles out of the chain and sprockets, but if you wait much longer then that you may have to also replace the chainrings.

The chain and sprockets on the c2 are more robust then on a bicycle. If you don't oil the chain you may not notice it at all but your times will be slightly slower and eventually the chain will skip.

I don't deny your council. However, I eagerly anticipate the premature death of my Concept2 model D with PM3, caused by my shoddy maintenance, so that I can then buy myself a new Concept2 model H with PM9.


Cheers
Dave

[paul s]

I've always wondered why Concept specifies using a paper towel to apply the chain oil. The paper towels quickly get shredded to little pieces. I have taken to using squares cut out of old t-shirts. Is there a reason for them specifying paper towels?

Paul Salata

[johnlvs2run]

I use an old nylon sock.