New model d,low drag

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Kpb018
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New model d,low drag

Post by Kpb018 » August 22nd, 2013, 5:32 am

Drag is 82 on level one & don't get over 100 until about level 4,& there is basically no resistance at start of stroke

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gregsmith01748
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Re: New model d,low drag

Post by gregsmith01748 » August 22nd, 2013, 5:41 am

That drag factor sounds ok. What is it at 10?

What kind of pace are you rowing and feeling no resistance?
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Kpb018
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Re: New model d,low drag

Post by Kpb018 » August 22nd, 2013, 6:15 am

It's 213/214,it's at all pace & every level,but not too bad on level 10,but it seems a little better I think, maybe it just needs to be worn in more,I should say I have never used a rowing machine before so maybe it is normal,but just feels a little off putting & doesn't feel right,first stroke has nice resistance from start to finish & then every stroke after doesn't seem to have proper resistance until about a third of stroke & sometimes worse than other times
I don't know maybe it's just me

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Carl Watts
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Re: New model d,low drag

Post by Carl Watts » August 22nd, 2013, 6:25 am

Usually a drag in the 110 to 130 range suits most people. Beginers typically start higher (I started in 164) mainly due to several factors like technique. leg speed, fitness level, rating too high, pace to low.

It's quite common to hear the phrase "No resistance" but it's all relative to your rating or strokes per minute and pace.
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Kpb018
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Re: New model d,low drag

Post by Kpb018 » August 22nd, 2013, 6:52 am

Thanks had me worried,just i read that the drag should be much higher on new model & got me worried, I guess it has to do with my technique as well.

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Re: New model d,low drag

Post by TabbRows » August 22nd, 2013, 7:52 am

Believe me, you do NOT want to row at a high rating (28+) for any length of time with the damper up at 10 on a new clean machine with a drag factor above 200 on that setting. Extrmely high risk of injury for most newbies, and many seasoned ergers. At higher drag factors your back and arms need to come into play sooner and at a greater degree of excertion than needed for good technique. Somewhere between 110 and 130 there is a similarity to the resistance oars feel moving through the water. Many larger heavyweight men erg at 135-150. In theory, you should be able to row at roughly the same watts output regardless of drag. Higher drag will factor into faster fatigue, which is why many erg racers try to hold the damper handle at or near 0 during sprints and races. At my gym, I finally got the maintenance folks to throughly clean the fans on the Ds. Drag at a 10 damper setting was 105 on one machine and around 112 on a couple of others, now around 212. Once cleaned, the "100 calorie workout" gymrats (do several aerobic machines-bikes, ergs, treadmills, stairmasters, etc-until you burn a 100 calories on that machine) were crashing early and complaining because suddenly resistance was too much (they think they are going faster when they erg at 34 spm, but their distances and paces are pathetic regardless of drag).
Last edited by TabbRows on August 22nd, 2013, 7:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Citroen
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Re: New model d,low drag

Post by Citroen » August 22nd, 2013, 7:54 am

Try rowing with the force curve on the display, that should show a nice clean hump and may help you to get the stroke sequenced correctly.

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Re: New model d,low drag

Post by Bob S. » August 22nd, 2013, 9:43 am

The machine does not determine the resistance. You do.

This is what the C2 website says about it:

http://www.concept2.com/indoor-rowers/t ... etting-101

(Note that there is one error there. The lowest damper setting is not 1, it can be moved to one mark below 1, an unlabelled zero.)

Scroll down to this section:

Damper Setting is Not…
Many people confuse damper setting with intensity level or resistance. Instead, the intensity of your workout is controlled by how much you use your legs, back and arms to move the handle—in other words, how hard you pull. This is true regardless of where the damper lever is set: the harder you pull, the more resistance you will feel. Because our indoor rowers use wind resistance (which is generated by the spinning flywheel), the faster you get the wheel spinning, the more resistance there will be.
Think about rowing on the water. Regardless of whether you are rowing in a sleek racing shell, or in a big, slow row boat, you will need to increase your intensity and apply more force to make either boat go faster. The difference is in how it feels to make the different boats go fast. Making a sleek boat go fast requires you to apply your force more quickly. Making the slow boat go fast also requires more force, but the speed at which you apply the force will be slower over the course of the rowing stroke.
At a damper setting of 1–4, the indoor rower feels like a sleek racing shell; at the higher numbers, the indoor rower feels like a slow row boat. Regardless of the setting, you will need to increase your effort to increase your intensity.


Bob S.

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Re: New model d,low drag

Post by jorgea » August 27th, 2013, 7:05 pm

You really do not want to row at such a high level in the beginning

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