Finding the right drag factor?

[efagerho]

I've seen quite a few posts here on the drag factor. I had previously been rowing at damper 4, which on my rower seemed to be a drag factor of about 117. I suspect that this is too low for a 190cm/95kg male. I've decided to try out my next workout at drag factor 130. However, I was wondering how people usually go about finding the right drag factor? Any good tests that would make sense doing?

[winniewinser]

I've seen quite a few posts here on the drag factor. I had previously been rowing at damper 4, which on my rower seemed to be a drag factor of about 117. I suspect that this is too low for a 190cm/95kg male. I've decided to try out my next workout at drag factor 130. However, I was wondering how people usually go about finding the right drag factor? Any good tests that would make sense doing?

Trial and error for me.

Started on 130 for everything after some bad advice from a colleague. Then read up about DF and played around on a few sessions before settling on 120 but I am only 79kg 6'2".

Many top rowers including Olympians will still use between 115-135. As the erg is measuring the acceleration of the wheel on each pull it's a case of finding the right sweetspot for you.

Plus sprints vs longer pieces may differ.

I'm sure other more experiences peeps will have better advice.

[jamesg]

If your rhythm is comfortable and you can produce at rates say 20-22 enough power to get fit (200W?), by pulling a long fast stroke, then there is nothing wrong with your drag factor.

[KeithT]

130 is my DF for everything but short sprints and we are similar weight. It's really a matter of preference and trial and error but I will say before I understood DF I used way too high of one and made quick gains once I lowered it. One easy test is to just row for a bit and each damper setting and see what feels rights, then see what the DF was for the best spot and use that, where do you get the lowest times with same effort - a bit subjective but that's the key, what feels right for you.

[MartinSH4321]

Totally agree with Keith, very subjective, trial and error to get the perfect DF. I also use around 130 for most workouts, 2k a bit more 135, 500 and shorter around max (200), very long rows a bit lower 125.

[Carl Watts]

I use about 134 but i notice it jumps around a small amount in the ErgData result you upload to the Concept 2 online Logbook. You would go higher for the 500m sprint.

[Dangerscouse]

I'm quite liking 120 at the moment, but it is usually 125.

For longer distances I have set most of my PBs at 115. I know someone who rows (very fast too) at max drag for everything so there is no one size fits all.

Don't make any quick assumptions about any particular drag as it can take a week or two to get used to it.

[Anth_F]

I used to row a lot on lower df, around 110-115, but then i adjusted up to df 130+ and found i was able to access better paces and more comfortably than i could at lower drags. I suspect a few variable factors come into play as why this is the case for me. Just experiment a bit to find the optimum df for you personally. You don't want the df so high that you become very fatigued quickly in a session however!! Once you find that sweet spot though it's a joy to row

[Carl Watts]

Wouldn't get to hung up of trying to find the "Perfect" DF, there are other variables that make a bigger difference to your performance on any given day. The total variation available on the Erg is more comparable to like whats available on a fixed gear bike in the Velodrome rather than 21 speeds on a road bike.Give or take 5 on your DF makes little difference.

[MPx]

As the erg is measuring the acceleration of the wheel on each pull it's a case of finding the right sweetspot for you.

I've been corrected for saying the same before....apparently its actually the deceleration that's measured. The faster it slows down the more work you have to do to spin it up again.

For the OP, as others have said, you need to find what works for you - and some have tried to take the widest look into this - eg in this threadviewtopic.php?f=9&t=187132&hilit=drag+factor&start=15 although I dont know if the experiment was ever finished.
I think that's a bit pointless and anyway something for the future. When you start you're really not good enough to make a good assessment about DF, and setting it too high will probably result in a poor stroke (however fast you're able to go) and too low will be demoralising unless you have some great fast twitch muscles. The consensus seems to be in the 115-135 range and even with outliers would probably only cover 110 to 145. Until you have more experience and a confident stroke I'd suggest picking a number like 130 and just stick with it.

[Ombrax]

I've been corrected for saying the same before....apparently its actually the deceleration that's measured. The faster it slows down the more work you have to do to spin it up again.

The deceleration is measured to calculate the drag factor, but to calculate the force at the handle over time, the system also measures what's happening as the flywheel comes back up to speed. (which you can see if you set the PM to display force, which it uses to calculate power and work done)

[winniewinser]

As the erg is measuring the acceleration of the wheel on each pull it's a case of finding the right sweetspot for you.

I've been corrected for saying the same before....apparently its actually the deceleration that's measured. The faster it slows down the more work you have to do to spin it up again.

I stand corrected...did a search and found some previous threads with confusing physics explanation too . It seemed to say it's a combination of how fast the fly wheel is going through a combination of the stroke and recovery.

[Carl Watts]

The Drag Factor appears to change a few points depending on your rating as well so even for the same pace, even the rating comes into play.

Something like ErgData is very useful for monitoring the DF because its something you forget about once set and with more and more dust inside the flywheel cage it slowly drops by itself over time.

[Anth_F]

Not me i never forget!!! It's actually one good thing to have OCD about. I always check my DF before embarking on a session... and now it's a part of the routine and takes seconds to do. I always use my own erg which is kept tip top so the df reading never diminishes over time but for people jumping about using gym erg's and such it's a good thing to make it second nature.

[Carl Watts]

You pretty much only need to check the DF once a year if you have your own Erg and its in the right environment. Mines currently in the garage that has a proper garage carpet and the dust is none existent. A Gym is possibly the worst environment possible for both dust and total lack of maintenance and the Ergs spent more time moving air than a couple of hours a week like mine. My bedroom was not the greatest either, significantly more dust in areas that people spend more time in, dust from clothing, bedding and normal carpet.

Just cleaned mine yesterday as the rower suddenly developed a "Rubbing" sound on the drive. This turned out to be the translucent plastic cover under the erg had somehow popped up in the middle and began rubbing on the chain. The dust in the flywheel wasn't worth worrying about.