Hi,
Bit of a weird question this one: how does the Damper Level relate to how you row (technique) and the flywheel engagement?
I'll try and explain: If I set the damper at Level 1 I find it easier to perform a series of rowing stokes... however it feels as if I am not effectively engaging with the flywheel. Its almost as if some of the movement in the early part of the stoke is being lost. Whilst if I set the damper to Level 10 as soon as I push with my legs the flywheel engages more forcefully, albeit it is not as easy (i.e. more tiresome) to perform rowing strokes versus Level 1.
As an example: if I do a 100m sprint I find the split time is typically quicker with a higher damper setting than a lower one. On a low damper setting it feels like the flywheel does not engage as quickly/effectively during the first part of the stroke. Why is this? I'd have thought it would have been the other way around.
Note: I'm a beginner so my technique is not perfect.
Andy
Beginners? 500m Split, Damper & Leg Force Relationship
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KipperTheDog
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Re: Beginners? 500m Split, Damper & Leg Force Relationship
Hi Andy,
From one beginner to another, here's my understanding. Hopefully others will correct me if I am wrong.
Higher damper setting decrease the flywheel's rotation faster while lower damper settings allow the flywheel to spin with less resistance and thus the flywheel will maintain more rotational speed over a given period of time than if the damper is set higher. Clear as mud? It has to do with how much air is allowed into the flywheel housing I believe.
Anywho, the higher the damper setting, the less explosive you have to be to solidly engage the flywheel again because the flywheel has slowed down. If the damper setting is low, the flywheel will still be rotating quite quickly at the next catch and you have to accelerate quickly to engage the flywheel and accelerate it again.
I found it helpful to think about it like you are actually in a boat. High damper setting means you're rowing a big fat aluminum fishing boat. After your stroke, this boat will slow down quickly in the water and you will reaccelerate the boat from a near standstill on your next stroke. Compare that to a low damper setting which means you're rowing a thin lightweight fast boat with almost no weight. After each stroke, this boat will "coast" easily through the water and you will have to pull your oar (handle) very quickly to catch the water and accelerate the boat.
Hope that helps!
Brad
From one beginner to another, here's my understanding. Hopefully others will correct me if I am wrong.
Higher damper setting decrease the flywheel's rotation faster while lower damper settings allow the flywheel to spin with less resistance and thus the flywheel will maintain more rotational speed over a given period of time than if the damper is set higher. Clear as mud? It has to do with how much air is allowed into the flywheel housing I believe.
Anywho, the higher the damper setting, the less explosive you have to be to solidly engage the flywheel again because the flywheel has slowed down. If the damper setting is low, the flywheel will still be rotating quite quickly at the next catch and you have to accelerate quickly to engage the flywheel and accelerate it again.
I found it helpful to think about it like you are actually in a boat. High damper setting means you're rowing a big fat aluminum fishing boat. After your stroke, this boat will slow down quickly in the water and you will reaccelerate the boat from a near standstill on your next stroke. Compare that to a low damper setting which means you're rowing a thin lightweight fast boat with almost no weight. After each stroke, this boat will "coast" easily through the water and you will have to pull your oar (handle) very quickly to catch the water and accelerate the boat.
Hope that helps!
Brad
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KipperTheDog
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- Joined: July 13th, 2011, 1:25 pm
Re: Beginners? 500m Split, Damper & Leg Force Relationship
Makes sense. Thanks.
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Byron Drachman
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- Joined: March 23rd, 2006, 9:26 pm
Re: Beginners? 500m Split, Damper & Leg Force Relationship
Hi Andy,
There is some information on drag factor here:
http://www.concept2.com/us/training/adv ... factor.asp
There is a one way clutch so the chain needs to "catch up" to the flywheel before the clutch engages. At a lower drag the flywheel is moving faster so it takes a little longer to engage.
My 2 cents: the analogy is not perfect, but there is some analogy with choice of gear on a bicycle. When people start cycling, a larger gear feels better. Among other things, there is some technique to cycling and imperfect technique shows up more at a higher cadence. As a cyclist rides more, usually the cadence goes up, but not always. Over the long haul, I think you are less likely to get an injury at a higher cadence when cycling, or at a lower drag when erging.
Byron
There is some information on drag factor here:
http://www.concept2.com/us/training/adv ... factor.asp
There is a one way clutch so the chain needs to "catch up" to the flywheel before the clutch engages. At a lower drag the flywheel is moving faster so it takes a little longer to engage.
My 2 cents: the analogy is not perfect, but there is some analogy with choice of gear on a bicycle. When people start cycling, a larger gear feels better. Among other things, there is some technique to cycling and imperfect technique shows up more at a higher cadence. As a cyclist rides more, usually the cadence goes up, but not always. Over the long haul, I think you are less likely to get an injury at a higher cadence when cycling, or at a lower drag when erging.
Byron