Resistance

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kl
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Resistance

Post by kl » May 31st, 2006, 11:17 am

I used a Concept 2B for years, during college and later at different gyms.
Later I began using a Concept 2C at different gyms. It seems the resistance is much less on the C than the B, is this normal? It seems no matter where I use a C, I cannot set the resistance high enough to get a similiar workout. Is there a remedy for this? Or a deliberite change from the company? Thanks!

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johnlvs2run
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Post by johnlvs2run » May 31st, 2006, 11:47 am

The lower resistances are much less on the C, unless you use a speed ring on the B.

The higher resistances are close to the same.
bikeerg 75 5'8" 155# - 18.5 - 51.9 - 568 - 1:52.7 - 8:03.8 - 20:13.1 - 14620 - 40:58.7 - 28855 - 1:23:48.0
rowerg 56-58 5'8.5" 143# - 1:39.6 - 3:35.6 - 7:24.0 - 18:57.4 - 22:49.9 - 7793 - 38:44.7 - 1:22:48.9 - 2:58:46.2

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michaelb
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Post by michaelb » May 31st, 2006, 11:58 am

The (almost) universal suggestion here is to set the "resistance" lower anyway, so if you are using a damper setting of 10 on the model C to get higher resistance like on the old model B, instead of worrying about how to go higher than that, set the rower at 3 instead and learn to row "fast".

If you are curious about why this is what pretty much everyone says here, check out the FAQ or search the forum for damper or drag setting.
M 51 5'9'' (1.75m), a once and future lightweight
Old PBs 500m-1:33.9 1K-3:18.6 2K-6:55.4 5K-18:17.6 10K-38:10.5 HM-1:24:00.1 FM-3:07.13

dymphna
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Model B

Post by dymphna » July 31st, 2006, 12:04 pm

Where do you get the speed rings? Is it better to use a speed ring or not? We just got a model B and I also notice the difference in the B/C models. Thanks in advance.....

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johnlvs2run
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Post by johnlvs2run » July 31st, 2006, 3:07 pm

I made one out of black roofing paper, that worked great, and attached it with black plastic ties. I covered the perimeter the same way. Then later I replaced it with one made with rubber from an old truck tire innertube. You can use anything that is relatively firm and blocks the flow of air. You could even just hang a small towel down from the top with some hooks.
bikeerg 75 5'8" 155# - 18.5 - 51.9 - 568 - 1:52.7 - 8:03.8 - 20:13.1 - 14620 - 40:58.7 - 28855 - 1:23:48.0
rowerg 56-58 5'8.5" 143# - 1:39.6 - 3:35.6 - 7:24.0 - 18:57.4 - 22:49.9 - 7793 - 38:44.7 - 1:22:48.9 - 2:58:46.2

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johnlvs2run
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Post by johnlvs2run » July 31st, 2006, 3:11 pm

I made a pattern with a piece of pvc with holes at 0, 7, and 9 inches, then drew two semi circles by sticking the inside of a ball point pen through the holes and a nail through the one at 0. You could use a flat piece of wood instead of the pvc. Then I cut out the semi circles and attached them to the erg.
bikeerg 75 5'8" 155# - 18.5 - 51.9 - 568 - 1:52.7 - 8:03.8 - 20:13.1 - 14620 - 40:58.7 - 28855 - 1:23:48.0
rowerg 56-58 5'8.5" 143# - 1:39.6 - 3:35.6 - 7:24.0 - 18:57.4 - 22:49.9 - 7793 - 38:44.7 - 1:22:48.9 - 2:58:46.2

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PaulS
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Re: Model B

Post by PaulS » July 31st, 2006, 3:57 pm

dymphna wrote:Where do you get the speed rings? Is it better to use a speed ring or not? We just got a model B and I also notice the difference in the B/C models. Thanks in advance.....
Give C2 a call, they should be able to help you out. Of course it will cost a few dollars, but very few, and shipping is a flat rate so you may consider a few other spare parts at the same time that may be needed for a B Tune-up.

The Model B is nearly indestructable, so making the lower Drag available will serve you for a long time.
Erg on,
Paul Smith
www.ps-sport.net Your source for Useful Rowing Accessories and Training Assistance.
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