Concept2 Forum

Hi All,<br><br>Am trying to figure out what setting I should use for what kind of training. I've heard that '3' is approximately water-pressure; but don't know for sure.<br><br>What setting is used for races (such as crash-b's)? Is the the monitor hooked into the setting such that a higher setting produces faster times? Should I always train at 10? Or 3? Does anyone have a unit that goes to 11?-)<br><br>Thanks!<br><br>Pal E Boy

Hi, I used to row on number 10 but now prefer number 4.<br><br>The best thing to do is row at different levels and see what suits yourself.<br><br>Happy rowing.

Lots of posts on this, search for 'damper' or 'drift'<br><br>I am just a beginner but I have figured it an analogy as being cycling and the Tour De France. Jan Ulrich pushes a big gear (damper 10) and Lance Armstrong spins a lot faster (damper 4). The spinning generates better technique and is probably more efficient overall.<br>I think most people are recommending a lower setting and a good technique. <br>Good job really as I don't have that much on top (hair on my head, muscles on my chest)<br>and not much down below come to think of it <br><br>John

The settings 1-10 on the Indoor Rower are not work level settings or fitness level settings. The intensity of your workout is controlled by how hard you pull on the handle and is calculated and displayed by the electronic monitor as you row. Your accomplishment is indicated by the monitor, not the setting of the wind damper. As your fitness level and rowing skill improves you will be able to achieve better scores... i.e. faster pace, higher watt output, or greater rate of calorie consumption... regardless of the damper setting in which you choose to row. Think of the Indoor Rower as your boat. If you row at low intensity you can row for a long time. To make the boat go faster you pull harder; and if you try to make the boat go very fast you will be exhausted in a short time. Air resistance on the flywheel fan works just like the water resistance on a boat.<br><br>Now that you are thinking in terms of a boat on the water, let's examine the effect of the damper settings 1-10. In the lower numbers 1-4 the feel of the Indoor Rower is like a sleek racing shell. In the higher numbers 6-10 the feel is like a big, slow rowing boat. Either boat can be rowed hard; and as you try to make either boat go fast, you will need to apply more force. Making the sleek boat go fast requires you to apply your force more quickly; and when trying to make the big boat go fast you will feel a high force but at a slower speed of application.<br><br>Sir (Copy_Paste is my friend) Pirate<br>

<!--QuoteBegin-Sir Pirate+Dec 21 2004, 07:01 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td class='genmed'><span class='genmed'><b>QUOTE</b></span> (Sir Pirate @ Dec 21 2004, 07:01 PM)</td></tr><tr><td class='quote'><!--QuoteEBegin--> The settings 1-10 on the Indoor Rower are not work level settings or fitness level settings. The intensity of your workout is controlled by how hard you pull on the handle and is calculated and displayed by the electronic monitor as you row. Your accomplishment is indicated by the monitor, not the setting of the wind damper. As your fitness level and rowing skill improves you will be able to achieve better scores... i.e. faster pace, higher watt output, or greater rate of calorie consumption... regardless of the damper setting in which you choose to row. Think of the Indoor Rower as your boat. If you row at low intensity you can row for a long time. To make the boat go faster you pull harder; and if you try to make the boat go very fast you will be exhausted in a short time. Air resistance on the flywheel fan works just like the water resistance on a boat.<br><br>Now that you are thinking in terms of a boat on the water, let's examine the effect of the damper settings 1-10. In the lower numbers 1-4 the feel of the Indoor Rower is like a sleek racing shell. In the higher numbers 6-10 the feel is like a big, slow rowing boat. Either boat can be rowed hard; and as you try to make either boat go fast, you will need to apply more force. Making the sleek boat go fast requires you to apply your force more quickly; and when trying to make the big boat go fast you will feel a high force but at a slower speed of application.<br><br>Sir (Copy_Paste is my friend) Pirate <!--QuoteEnd--> </td></tr></table><br> Maybe there's some problem with my technique. I feel like I'm putting too much stress on my knee-joints. Espicially when I'm carried away and try to go fast. Should I go up in damper setting, in order to row more slowly but pull harder?

<!--QuoteBegin-Guido B+Dec 21 2004, 01:40 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td class='genmed'><span class='genmed'><b>QUOTE</b></span> (Guido B @ Dec 21 2004, 01:40 PM)</td></tr><tr><td class='quote'><!--QuoteEBegin--> Maybe there's some problem with my technique. I feel like I'm putting too much stress on my knee-joints. Espicially when I'm carried away and try to go fast. Should I go up in damper setting, in order to row more slowly but pull harder? <!--QuoteEnd--> </td></tr></table><br> Guido B try it and see mate but I would say it might help !

My suggestion is to go with a setting of a 2-3... Can't lose, doesnt feel heavy and you can still grind on it by pulling your ass off... You got that! Personally, it just feels too heavy on my upper body with the higher damper, and not trying to brag, but I dont have a problem with upper body strength, so I personally prefer a 2-3, although all my training is done in an 8-man shell, so.... I personally think the 2-3 feels most like the 8+, go with whats comfortable to you.

<!--QuoteBegin-Guido B+Dec 21 2004, 10:40 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td class='genmed'><span class='genmed'><b>QUOTE</b></span> (Guido B @ Dec 21 2004, 10:40 AM)</td></tr><tr><td class='quote'><!--QuoteEBegin-->Maybe there's some problem with my technique. I feel like I'm putting too much stress on my knee-joints. Espicially when I'm carried away and try to go fast. Should I go up in damper setting, in order to row more slowly but pull harder?<!--QuoteEnd--> </td></tr></table><br>Having not seen you on the Erg, this is jsut a guess based on what you are describing. It sounds as if you are slamming your knees down hard and hyperextending them, this indeed will cause a lot of undue stress on the joint.<br><br>Sit on the Erg and extend your legs to the point at which the seat has moved 99% the distance it can, note that your knee still hass a long way to go before hyperextending, now very slowly, find the 100% distance and note that it can be reached still far from hyperextension. While making a stroke, work to get to that point and hold, rather than going for the "bouncy knees" (that probably come up in the way of your hands on the recovery) and it will be a lot more comfortable.<br><br>A Higher drag factor can help you to learn this, as you will not be very quick when starting out, but lower it incrementally as you improve in technique so that you also learn the quickness required.<br><br>Higher DF's DO NOT equal PULLING HARDER, the SLOWER part is correct though. (sorry about the yelling) <br><br>Oh, Start rowing your training pieces without straps. Hmm, should I mention 10 meters/Stroke to complete the set? Yeah what the Hell, Train Strapless and 10 Meters per stroke (S10PS).<br><br>Cheers!

<!--QuoteBegin-Sir Pirate+Dec 21 2004, 12:01 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td class='genmed'><span class='genmed'><b>QUOTE</b></span> (Sir Pirate @ Dec 21 2004, 12:01 PM)</td></tr><tr><td class='quote'><!--QuoteEBegin--> The settings 1-10 on the Indoor Rower are not work level settings or fitness level settings. The intensity of your workout is controlled by how hard you pull on the handle and is calculated and displayed by the electronic monitor as you row. Your accomplishment is indicated by the monitor, not the setting of the wind damper. As your fitness level and rowing skill improves you will be able to achieve better scores... i.e. faster pace, higher watt output, or greater rate of calorie consumption... regardless of the damper setting in which you choose to row. Think of the Indoor Rower as your boat. If you row at low intensity you can row for a long time. To make the boat go faster you pull harder; and if you try to make the boat go very fast you will be exhausted in a short time. Air resistance on the flywheel fan works just like the water resistance on a boat.<br><br>Now that you are thinking in terms of a boat on the water, let's examine the effect of the damper settings 1-10. In the lower numbers 1-4 the feel of the Indoor Rower is like a sleek racing shell. In the higher numbers 6-10 the feel is like a big, slow rowing boat. Either boat can be rowed hard; and as you try to make either boat go fast, you will need to apply more force. Making the sleek boat go fast requires you to apply your force more quickly; and when trying to make the big boat go fast you will feel a high force but at a slower speed of application.<br><br>Sir (Copy_Paste is my friend) Pirate <!--QuoteEnd--> </td></tr></table><br> So, I can use the airflow setting as if I'm adding drag to the boat; and use the drag as a training aid (kind of like putting more weight in the basket for the old ergs (pre-concept2)). And when it comes to PR pieces, back off to 3 or so and use that for my 'PR' pieces.<br><br>Just out of curiosity, what setting do people use in erg competitions such as CRASHB's?<br><br>Pal E Boy

<!--QuoteBegin-pal_e_boy+Jan 5 2005, 06:52 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td class='genmed'><span class='genmed'><b>QUOTE</b></span> (pal_e_boy @ Jan 5 2005, 06:52 AM)</td></tr><tr><td class='quote'><!--QuoteEBegin--> So, I can use the airflow setting as if I'm adding drag to the boat; and use the drag as a training aid (kind of like putting more weight in the basket for the old ergs (pre-concept2)). And when it comes to PR pieces, back off to 3 or so and use that for my 'PR' pieces.<br><br>Just out of curiosity, what setting do people use in erg competitions such as CRASHB's?<br><br>Pal E Boy <!--QuoteEnd--> </td></tr></table><br> No, you can use the Drag as if you are rowing in slow boats. The Gamut basket was just a way of determining a control for resistance on the flywheel so that the revs accomplished in a fixed time could be compared, it's not the same thing.<br><br>Finally, you have it a bit backwards, if you train to have a sluggish power application (high drag) and then switch to a lower drag (higher flywheel speed), you will have to execute your drive more quickly to attain the same pace and likely will fly and die. In reality, you can train at high forces on lower DF's and then up the DF slightly for a competition to gain an "edge", as you will be able to hit your target pace with less peak force at the same rate you are trained for due to the slightly longer drive time due to the slower flywheel.<br><br>