I have purchased a used Model D (about 18 months old) and find the chain both on stroke and recovery to be very much rougher than my old Model C with the silencer kit. The chain is by far the loudest part of this Model D.
I will try oiling, but anywhere else I should look?
Rough Chain
Rough Chain
Bob in Munich
85yrs, 85 kilos or 187 pounds, 185 cm or
6ft I Row and I ride my HP Velotechnik Scorpion FS20 E-Trike.
85yrs, 85 kilos or 187 pounds, 185 cm or
6ft I Row and I ride my HP Velotechnik Scorpion FS20 E-Trike.
A D should be quieter than a C, even with the silencer kit. Remove the plastic cover on the bottom of the machine and check the chain routing:
http://www.concept2.com/us/support/manu ... outing.pdf
Make sure it is running on the fixed and traveling pulleys and isn't interfering with the bungee cord or anything else along the way.....C2JonW
http://www.concept2.com/us/support/manu ... outing.pdf
Make sure it is running on the fixed and traveling pulleys and isn't interfering with the bungee cord or anything else along the way.....C2JonW
73 year old grandpa living in Waterbury Center, Vermont, USA
Concept2 employee 1980-2018! and what a long, strange trip it's been......
Concept2 employee 1980-2018! and what a long, strange trip it's been......
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igoeja
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Similar Question
I row at local Equinox, and they have two Model D's, but one's chain/drive became much rougher. From recollection, having a similar problem with my own Model C when I had my own equipment, I can't remember whether it is a problem with the chain - it might need to be oiled - or something like the internals, i.e., spoke and fans.
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johnlvs2run
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rough cogwheel and vibration in the chain
The chain on my D is moderately rough, as I can feel the individual links as they go through the cogs, which transmits vibration through the handle.
The same was the case with the C, whereas the chain on the B was quite smooth.
I think the roughness is caused by the cogwheel, as it is visibly out of line as it goes around in a circle with the drive.
That of itself shouldn't cause roughness though, so the individual cogs must be rough as the chain passes over them.
It would be good to smooth off the cogs and to eliminate the roughness in the chain.
The same was the case with the C, whereas the chain on the B was quite smooth.
I think the roughness is caused by the cogwheel, as it is visibly out of line as it goes around in a circle with the drive.
That of itself shouldn't cause roughness though, so the individual cogs must be rough as the chain passes over them.
It would be good to smooth off the cogs and to eliminate the roughness in the chain.
bikeerg 75 5'8" 155# - 18.5 - 51.9 - 568 - 1:52.7 - 8:03.8 - 20:13.1 - 14620 - 40:58.7 - 28855 - 1:23:48.0
rowerg 56-58 5'8.5" 143# - 1:39.6 - 3:35.6 - 7:24.0 - 18:57.4 - 22:49.9 - 7793 - 38:44.7 - 1:22:48.9 - 2:58:46.2
rowerg 56-58 5'8.5" 143# - 1:39.6 - 3:35.6 - 7:24.0 - 18:57.4 - 22:49.9 - 7793 - 38:44.7 - 1:22:48.9 - 2:58:46.2
So sorry I have to bring this up again.
I tried my old Model C on the weekend (now owned by my best girl
) The chain is much smoother, so this morning I opened my Model D up to check the shock cord and chain. The shock cord appears ok and was routed properly. The chain is routed properly but was not centered on the anchor bolt; it is now.
But the cog wheel apeared to be oozing rusty oil or water from the teeth where they show through the chain?? Do they rust? I sprayed it with WD-40 so we will see. The chain was not rusty.
Also in addition to the rough feeling chain, my Model D makes a kind of loud swishing noise on recovery, as if something is rubbing on the plastic chain/shock cord cover or is it the chain rubbing against the rusty cog teeth?. Is this normal?
I tried my old Model C on the weekend (now owned by my best girl
) The chain is much smoother, so this morning I opened my Model D up to check the shock cord and chain. The shock cord appears ok and was routed properly. The chain is routed properly but was not centered on the anchor bolt; it is now. But the cog wheel apeared to be oozing rusty oil or water from the teeth where they show through the chain?? Do they rust? I sprayed it with WD-40 so we will see. The chain was not rusty.
Also in addition to the rough feeling chain, my Model D makes a kind of loud swishing noise on recovery, as if something is rubbing on the plastic chain/shock cord cover or is it the chain rubbing against the rusty cog teeth?. Is this normal?
Bob in Munich
85yrs, 85 kilos or 187 pounds, 185 cm or
6ft I Row and I ride my HP Velotechnik Scorpion FS20 E-Trike.
85yrs, 85 kilos or 187 pounds, 185 cm or
6ft I Row and I ride my HP Velotechnik Scorpion FS20 E-Trike.
I've been noticing more noise on my model D (which was delivered in March of 2004)... I was especially shocked by the difference in noise on my machine vs. those at a competition I was at this past weekend. These were also model Ds, but still not the "D2" version, and the chain noise was almost nonexistant and very little vibration, compared with my machine (its noticeable, but less than on a Model C).
I've also noticed that I've got a fair bit of "rusty" colored oil coming from around the plastic guide that snaps to the frame just before the chain goes into and around the cogs/sprocket. There's also some light reddish discoloration on the idler pulley. I did see that there appeared to be some wear on the plastic return mechanism housing cover, probably caused by some rubbing of the chain, as it's right in the middle of it. The chain is properly oiled and none of the links seem stiff at all.
Could it be that there's a known problem with the sprockets on some of the older model Ds? I only ask because the spare parts you can order online for the Model C allow for separately ordering a chain and a sprocket, while the Model D has a chain and sprocket combination.
Or maybe I should just tighten the shock cord to take some slack out of the equation? Even though the handle definitely makes it all the way back to the chain guide under the PM3?
Thanks,
-Eric
I've also noticed that I've got a fair bit of "rusty" colored oil coming from around the plastic guide that snaps to the frame just before the chain goes into and around the cogs/sprocket. There's also some light reddish discoloration on the idler pulley. I did see that there appeared to be some wear on the plastic return mechanism housing cover, probably caused by some rubbing of the chain, as it's right in the middle of it. The chain is properly oiled and none of the links seem stiff at all.
Could it be that there's a known problem with the sprockets on some of the older model Ds? I only ask because the spare parts you can order online for the Model C allow for separately ordering a chain and a sprocket, while the Model D has a chain and sprocket combination.
Or maybe I should just tighten the shock cord to take some slack out of the equation? Even though the handle definitely makes it all the way back to the chain guide under the PM3?
Thanks,
-Eric
BobD wrote:So sorry I have to bring this up again.
I tried my old Model C on the weekend (now owned by my best girl
But the cog wheel apeared to be oozing rusty oil or water from the teeth where they show through the chain?? Do they rust? I sprayed it with WD-40 so we will see. The chain was not rusty.
Also in addition to the rough feeling chain, my Model D makes a kind of loud swishing noise on recovery, as if something is rubbing on the plastic chain/shock cord cover or is it the chain rubbing against the rusty cog teeth?. Is this normal?