Pm3 circuit board parts

[Rob_89]

Hi, I have a pm3 monitor not picking up when I row. It turns on and works fine but when I row all stats stay at 0. I have tried the input cable on another monitor and works fine so I know that's not the issue. I have opened the monitor and the input jack (not sure on what this part is called on the circuit board) seems to be loose on one side on circuit board and may need to be soldered on again. I would like to replace this part on the circuit board if possible. Would anyone know what this part is called and the size etc so I can order the correct part.

Also if anyone would know if there may be another issue causing this I am open to suggestions.

Thanks

[Citroen]

The PM3 hasn't been built since 2014, so best of luck with your searches.

Upgrading to a PM5 may be a better, more cost effective option.

[Rob_89]

Thank you.

I think the part for the circuit board may be generic for all input cables of that size. Was just interested to see if it could be fixed. Thanks for response.

[JaapvanE]

I think the part for the circuit board may be generic for all input cables of that size.

I succesfully used a standard size 2.5 mm plug to plug in the C2 sensor, works flawlessly for over 2 years now.

[Carl Watts]

The PM3 and PM4 socket information is as follows:-

https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/jack-plu ... a897e&gb=s

That part is available from multiple sources if you google the manufacturer part number.

Common problems are, it comes loose or it cracks in half at the front. The crack can be hairline along the moulding mark.

You also may be stuck on zero if the monitor is not configured for a Model C in the hidden menu.

https://www.concept2.com/support/monito ... leshooting

The second generation PM3 is still a good monitor if it has been looked after, the first generation is pretty much toast now.

[Rob_89]

Perfect.

Thanks very much for all the info provided. I will order the part and see how it goes. Cheers guys.

[stevegaspars]

Common problems are, it comes loose or it cracks in half at the front. The crack can be hairline along the moulding mark.

How does this happen? I can't imagine there would be any load on the socket to make it loose or crack. A well aimed DTH?

[Carl Watts]

Common problems are, it comes loose or it cracks in half at the front. The crack can be hairline along the moulding mark.

How does this happen? I can't imagine there would be any load on the socket to make it loose or crack. A well aimed DTH?

Common fault, cracked or smashed or the socket forced off the board entirely.

What happens is the cable goes intermittent at the connector and people start wiggling the cable all the time to try and get the connection back and the socket cannot handle it.

The board layout for the connector as well as the USB socket was never done right or corrected so the PCB tracks can rip right off the board. There should have been additional via's added for strength and the pads replicated on the second layer of the board. More copper could have been left on the board and as the two front pins are common a single large pad could have gone right across instead of two smaller pads that rip off the board. Lead free solder came along at that stuff is useless in terms of bond strength compared to leaded.

The PM5 moved away from a SMD socket, problem solved.