Chain oil again

[mict450]

I gotta say it's not rocket science. Any light multipurpose oil should be okay.

Oops! I see Nomath is quicker on the keyboard.

[Tsnor]

I would use without hesitation the bike chain oils that you have available, but less-sophisticated 'universal' non-hygroscopic oils will also do.

If you compare the functional requirements between bike chains and rowers chains:
- a bike chain is used outdoors and should not be rinsed away in the rain ; rowing is mostly done indoors.
- a bike chain is used on dirty roads and should not be sticky for dust and sand ; rowing is usually done in a clean ambient.
- a bike chain is sometimes used in sub-zero environments ; rowing is rarely done in freezing temperatures.
- a bike chain transmits power by a high teeth-ratio between front chainwheel and the rear sprocket, hence the lubricating oil should withstand high contact pressures at the moving surfaces ; rowing chains have a lower pressure load.

I believe most universal oils, e.g. acid-free non-smelling petroleum-based oils, used for sewing machines and typewriters in the old days, serve this purpose.

Normath Wow, I've always agreed with every word you post... until now. Grin.

" rowing is usually done in a clean ambient." You should see my garage, or us erging outside at the boathouse
"rowing is rarely done in freezing temperatures. " I hit 37F (2.8C) this winter. I much prefer the very cold garage to a hot room rowing
" rowing chains have a lower pressure load." Same Wattage as a bike (o.k. 15Watts less), much lower cadence. So mayne same load as bike? Maybe higher peak load? (Bike chain is under force for 60-80% of time as feet alternate. Erg chain is under load maybe 35-45% of the time ? -- I'm guessing on these numbers).

That said, agree completely with your conclusion.

Aside, the 3 in 1 oil C2 recommends was designed for bicycle chains...

[Carl Watts]

Its a chain just about any oil will do, if you had no oil then even olive oil would work.

Basically the preference is clear oils like C2 used to provide when you buy a new rower and then most people throw away in the packaging.

3 in 1 is clear or used to be and there are silicone oils that are good as well that come in aerosol cans. bike chain lubricants would work.

Its not technical. I think the preference for clear oils is in case it gets on your clothing. If you have ever changed the car oil yourself, you know if you get that on you it never fully washes out and stains.

[Nomath]

Normath Wow, I've always agreed with every word you post... until now. Grin.

" rowing is usually done in a clean ambient." You should see my garage, or us erging outside at the boathouse
"rowing is rarely done in freezing temperatures. " I hit 37F (2.8C) this winter. I much prefer the very cold garage to a hot room rowing
" rowing chains have a lower pressure load." Same Wattage as a bike (o.k. 15Watts less), much lower cadence. So mayne same load as bike? Maybe higher peak load? (Bike chain is under force for 60-80% of time as feet alternate. Erg chain is under load maybe 35-45% of the time ? -- I'm guessing on these numbers).
....

I keep saying that the chain on a stationary erg, mostly indoors, is subjected much less to dirt and temperature extremes than a chain on a moving bike outdoors.
You are right to question my statement about the pressure load. Lubricants need to withstand the pressure at the contact areas of the chain links. Pressure is force divided by surface area. Force is power divided by speed. The chain speed of a rowing erg is in the range of 1.5-3 m/s. The speed of a bicycle chain is less than 1 m/s. Hence at the same power, the force on the bike chain is higher. However, a bicycle chain has ½ inch links and a rowing chain is ¼ inch. So I agree it is complex and I'll suspend on my last point.

[Carl Watts]

Peak chain loading on the rower at low ratings is probably higher than a bike. A bike provides a more continuous power but your only driving with one leg at a time. Hard to tell, the chains themselves are also quite different between the two. Back in the day I managed to wear out a bike chain so badly it jumped the gear under high load, that's not likely to happen on the rower there is no fine road grit to get into it and greatly accelerate the wear. It is however pretty common to have the links seize up if you don't lube it and then store the rower.

I did look at switching to a Stainless Steel N25 chain but the load spec is much lower than the C2 Nickel plated steel version. Could I have used it ? probably but stainless is also not a great bearing material and it can bind and seize more easily than steel.

With a bit of lube the chain lasts a lifetime, my model C still has the original factory D.I.D N25 chain on it.

The only reason I changed the chain on my Model D is that it came with a non Nickel version and the first foot or so rusts like mad if you sweat and it looks ugly.

[Prydey]

I guess my question has been answered. Before rushing out and trying to source some 3in1 etc, I'll just use my bike chain lube.

It sounds like it is used much more sparingly than on a bike as well going by the C2 videos.

Thanks everyone.