Model C refurb

[Anth_F]

Blimey, that does look mint for such an oldie.

[c2jonw]

Jerg, Yes, we numbered them by hand back then and it's a November 1993 machine, probably assembled by Mary. I agree pretty much with everything recommended as the machine appears to be in near mint condition. You might get by with lubing the chain, cleaning the monorail and seat rollers and a new shock cord. And don't worry about the cover on the bottom. Good luck with it! C2JonW

[jerg]

Jerg, Yes, we numbered them by hand back then and it's a November 1993 machine, probably assembled by Mary. I agree pretty much with everything recommended as the machine appears to be in near mint condition. You might get by with lubing the chain, cleaning the monorail and seat rollers and a new shock cord. And don't worry about the cover on the bottom. Good luck with it! C2JonW

Awesome, thanks!

[jag]

Personally I like the newer plastic handle. The wood one isn't as wide which can be uncomfortable if you have wide shoulders. (If anyone wants to trade plastic for wood let me know). And the PM1 is a reliable monitor, but it doesn't have a lot of useful features that the PM3 and later have; besides heart rate that you don't care about, it also has no ability to save results on flash drive or card, no re-row option to race against yourself, no force curve, no drag factor, no games. Games I don't care about, but the others are all useful so personally I would include a PM5 in your upgrade kit.

I would also look carefully at your seat rollers and bearings, since in my experience those can be the first things to go, usually long before the shock cord.

[Anth_F]

I never knew that, about them not having a drag factor feature? I thought they all had that!!!

Would be a bit of a bummer that.

I never rowed on any C2 other than my model E. But i do think the model C handles appear to be good imo, and look comfy with the padded foam grips.

[jag]

No, drag factor started with the PM2. PM1 was a very rudimentary monitor, though it was great for its time.

[c2jonw]

Just for the record, PM1 did utilize Drag Factor- but at the time we felt it was such an esoteric thing that people wouldn't be interested in it so it can't be viewed. Remember that the previous monitor was a cable drive bike speedo.......C2JonW

[smitch1984]

On a similar note, I'm fixing up a couple of disused model C's for my club. Both had PM2s that were inoperable due to battery corrosion. I am retrofitting one with a PM3 and another with a PM4.

I know that the model C doesn't have a generator like a model D, but I was under the impression that the PMs could run off of battery and still receive input from the existing pickup wire. However neither PM registers anything when connected to the model Cs.

Is there a compatibility issue, or is it possible that both pickup wires are no longer functional?

[Ombrax]

Is there a compatibility issue, or is it possible that both pickup wires are no longer functional?

The first thing to do is to tell the PM what model rower it's connected to. If it thinks it's connected to a type that is incorrect the PM won't register any activity. The buttons will work and allow you to navigate to different menus, but it won't show that you're rowing. That's what happened when I upgraded the PM2+ on my Model C to a PM3

Give me a few minutes to dig around and I'll find a link for you.

[Ombrax]

Here you go:

http://www.concept2.com/service/monitor ... stuck-zero

Resolution

Ensure the “tach” (generator) cable is plugged in fully.
On indoor rowers, ensure the model type on the monitor matches the indoor rower in use. Check this as follows:
On the Main Menu, choose More Options.
Choose Utilities.
Choose Product ID and look at what appears next to "Model." This should be D or D/E for Model Ds, and D/E for Model Es and Dynamic Indoor Rowers (for reference, D/E will also be listed for SkiErgs, but this procedure applies to indoor rowers only). If you have retrofitted a monitor to an older indoor rower, this should read C, B or A according to the indoor rower you have. If this doesn't match the indoor rower model you have, take the following steps:
From the Main Menu, select More Options > Utilities > LCD Contrast.
Press Change Units or Units three times.
Press Change Display or Display three times.
When the Set Rower Type screen appears, press the button next to Change Type until the correct indoor model is displayed:
D or D/E for Model D Indoor Rowers
D/E for Model E and Dynamic Indoor Rowers
C, B or A as appropriate for the indoor rower you have, if you've retrofitted a monitor to an older machine
Select Set Type to save the setting.

Note: If you change the monitor batteries, you may need to follow this procedure again.

[smitch1984]

That did it, thank you!

[jds]

This is an old thread, but I just discovered the upgrade kit - which has been upgraded. Here are my notes:

The Model C 1915 Chain Axle Sprocket Replacement Kit Model C, D, E "silencing kit" was introduced back in 2007 but I stumbled across it just a couple of weeks ago. The original included:

• 1 PN 1163, Quiet tooth sprocket
• 1 PN 1165 Axle D/E
• 2 PN 1024 Pulley Chain Idler
• 1 PN 1941 Nickel Chain with connectors
• 1 PN 1300 Bearing 17mm
• 1 PN 1012 Bearing cup 17mm
• 4 PN 1230 Screw 10/24
• 4 PN 1236 Nut 10/24

The current package contains an additional R8 bearing and cup (PN 232, 1013) and a 1/4-20x3/4" Torx screw. I called Concept2 support and learned that the extra bearing and cup are replacements for the left-side axle bearing. When you have the axle out, remove and replace the old bearing and cup.

The 1/4-20x3/4" Torx screw is supplied to be used as tool with a 1/4-20 nut (not supplied) to help remove the idler pulley - see viewtopic.php?t=186070 However - rather than using the 3/4" Torx screw it's easier to borrow a 1/4-20 1" screw and nut from the four that secure the black plastic chain guide located under the Performance Monitor. The longer Phillips screw gives you more room for the nut. Don't forget to reinstall the fender washer when you replace the borrowed screw.

The traveling chain idler pulley has a sleeve - "Traveling Pulley Spacer" PN 1303 - which you must transfer from the old part.

The order of parts replacement doesn't make much difference if you're familiar with how the machine works. If this is your first foray into the machine's guts, you might replace the chain first.