PM2 Not working

[ekinskofer]

Hey folks,

Picked up a Model C at a garage sale for $250CDN, but the monitor was broken. Took a gamble to see if I could try and fix it. Looks like there's a bit of corrosion in there, however, I've read that you can try and remove this.. sometimes successfully. Is there a tutorial on debugging these? test pin locations? See attached pics of both sides. I'll likely go for a PM5 retro kit, however, I'd like to give this a shot first as a retro fit is around $250CDN.

front:
https://imgur.com/8aRP4fY
back:
https://imgur.com/yUmo0oi
screen:
https://imgur.com/mwhXKPM

many thanks

[Carl Watts]

I have already posted plenty of info on this forum if you search.

That's what I call the "CAP-E" version, it was the very first version of the PM2 made and the LCD screen is not compatible with all the later versions from V1.6 onwards as they changed the pinouts.

To be honest I would probably have a go at repairing it with my experience but really its not worth it now, you could spent hours on it.

You need a decent multimeter like a Fluke 179 or 87 with plenty of digits because you are looking at a few milliamps and a 3V power supply to see what current its drawing. I can fault diagnose it just from the current its using.

Probably I would just bin it now and get a PM5 retrofit kit.

[ekinskofer]

Hey thanks for the reply. Yes, I've seen a lot of your posts, however, the ones I looked at the board didn't look the same, so I figured there were different versions. Ok this confirms my thinking, it's too old, not worth the time or it's way out of my league. If it was a straight forward debug, I'd have a go, but it's not, so I'll spring for the retrofit kit.. I'm still only into this thing for $500CDN which is 300-400 less than what I'm seeing anyways on FBM.

I'll test the monitor cable and make sure that it's reading > 100Ohms first, otherwise I'll need to inspect that before putting in my order.

Thanks for your time Carl. Cheers.