So I have a great condition model B (actually the limited run one that had the plastic track) and it came with a PM1 on it. I am fairly new to rowing but from the reading I've done it seems that knowing drag factor is a big deal. Problem with the PM1 is no drag factor display. Does this really matter. I'm trying to figure out how I should have the vent set for optimal row times and have been using the chart comparing the B with later models which gives me an idea about what setting (1-10) its at but from what I gather drag factor can change a ton based off of wear and tear on shock cord?
So my question...should I upgrade to a PM2 or above (really the only thing I'd care about is drag factor as I don't care for games or the online features).
Also, I started looking at slides and am intrigued mostly because from what I've read it seems that it helps you correct your form more easily because if you aren't rowing correctly than you wont stay centered on the slides. I think my form is pretty good (I've used some videos recommended from here) but if slides do force you to row with better form than I think that would be a good form check. Any one with experience with slides willing to offer advice on whether or not they find them worthwhile?
To upgrade or not to upgrade that is the question
Re: To upgrade or not to upgrade that is the question
I have model B and I've upgraded with PM3 and speed ring. Reason as you to compare drag factor to later models, but model B is harder in "catch" stage than later model because flywheel is heavier.
Slide is take a lot of space, I think it not necessary for rowing proper form. When you row long enough you will get proper form.
Slide is take a lot of space, I think it not necessary for rowing proper form. When you row long enough you will get proper form.
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Carl Watts
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Re: To upgrade or not to upgrade that is the question
The changes from the Model B to the Model C were significant, it took a huge jump.
The Model D is just a refined version of the Model C, in fact I row on both and if you changed the handle on the C and also fitted a quiet kit you would not be able to tell the difference between the C and the D.
The Model B is still great for getting some exercise but my advice is if your still rowing on it after 6 months and feel you need to get more serious or even be able to connect the monitor to a heart rate strap or a PC etc then simply upgrade to a Model D. The Model B has kind of had its day.
The Model D is just a refined version of the Model C, in fact I row on both and if you changed the handle on the C and also fitted a quiet kit you would not be able to tell the difference between the C and the D.
The Model B is still great for getting some exercise but my advice is if your still rowing on it after 6 months and feel you need to get more serious or even be able to connect the monitor to a heart rate strap or a PC etc then simply upgrade to a Model D. The Model B has kind of had its day.
Carl Watts.
Age:58 Weight: 104kg Height:183cm
Concept 2 Monitor Service Technician & indoor rower.
http://log.concept2.com/profile/863525/log
Age:58 Weight: 104kg Height:183cm
Concept 2 Monitor Service Technician & indoor rower.
http://log.concept2.com/profile/863525/log
Re: To upgrade or not to upgrade that is the question
I have both a model B with PM2 and a model C with PM3. They both work great and I use them both, although the B is lonely most of the time.
As far as drag factor is concerned, it's just a matter of feel - heavier or lighter on the drive. Putting a number to it is for allowing you to set it the same on various machines. But it really isn't important, just set it to where it's comfortable for you if you are rowing on one machine (lighter is better to learn proper form). Also, it's not too hard to set it close on other machines just by how it feels. If all you want out of a new monitor is DF, then don't spend the money. If you want all the new, cool stuff the newer monitors offer, then that's a different story. You can't buy a new PM2, only a PM5 from C2, but there are used PMs around if you look.
My model C is on slides. I like them because it smoothes everything out. Easier on my back, and more like on the water rowing. They are not necessary for proper form development, probably better to learn to erg without them because learning the proper technique is important without having to add in the sliding factor. They extend the area needed for the setup to about 12 feet, so you need a bigger space.
I recommend you use your B, learn to row, get some fitness and technique built up, and then reevaluate. C2 ergometers are the best bargain in fitness equipment and if you really get hooked, you'll upgrade to a newer erg and monitor.
As far as drag factor is concerned, it's just a matter of feel - heavier or lighter on the drive. Putting a number to it is for allowing you to set it the same on various machines. But it really isn't important, just set it to where it's comfortable for you if you are rowing on one machine (lighter is better to learn proper form). Also, it's not too hard to set it close on other machines just by how it feels. If all you want out of a new monitor is DF, then don't spend the money. If you want all the new, cool stuff the newer monitors offer, then that's a different story. You can't buy a new PM2, only a PM5 from C2, but there are used PMs around if you look.
My model C is on slides. I like them because it smoothes everything out. Easier on my back, and more like on the water rowing. They are not necessary for proper form development, probably better to learn to erg without them because learning the proper technique is important without having to add in the sliding factor. They extend the area needed for the setup to about 12 feet, so you need a bigger space.
I recommend you use your B, learn to row, get some fitness and technique built up, and then reevaluate. C2 ergometers are the best bargain in fitness equipment and if you really get hooked, you'll upgrade to a newer erg and monitor.
Mark Underwood. Rower first, cyclist too.
Re: To upgrade or not to upgrade that is the question
I agree with what's been said above:
Stick with what you have as is, and if based on that you decide that you want to continue rowing then you can either look for a used C (or D) or you can just buy a new D.
IMO knowing the exact DF isn't an important enough issue to upgrade the PM on your Model B - if won't take long for you to figure out what "feel" at the handle works best for you, and you'll be able to set that (or get close) without having an actual number displayed.
Good Luck
Stick with what you have as is, and if based on that you decide that you want to continue rowing then you can either look for a used C (or D) or you can just buy a new D.
IMO knowing the exact DF isn't an important enough issue to upgrade the PM on your Model B - if won't take long for you to figure out what "feel" at the handle works best for you, and you'll be able to set that (or get close) without having an actual number displayed.
Good Luck
Re: To upgrade or not to upgrade that is the question
This is a bit late but...Thank you guys for the all of the feedback. I'll be taking the consensus advice and just stick with what I have for now. It definitely works for my purposes and I guess I'll just figure out the optimal setting for vent as I go. Thanks again!