Slight noise / vibration on return - 11 year old Model D

[Joebarbs]

I have an 11 year old model D. On the return I feel some kind of vibration like a metal on metal kind of thing and slight noise. I oiled the chain and it didn't solve the problem. The chain looks and feels like it should. So I don't think it's the chain. Just to provide more detail I believe this unit has about 2,000,000+ meters rowed but hasn't really been used over the last 5 years.

I don't feel or hear this noise on the pull. I only really feel and hear it on the last half of the return. Any suggestions on what I could try to fix this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!!

[Citroen]

How many millions of metres are there on the clock? The PM3 has a lifetime odometer (although on early firmware it could get reset to zero when the batteries went dead and on even earlier firmware it wasn't displayed).

It's probably time to replace the chain, the shock cords and all the pulleys & sprockets that the chain/shock cords run on, if it has had a very high amount of usage.

[Joebarbs]

All those things look good to the eye. I'm thinking it may be some kind of ball bearing issue. Just don't know how to attack it.

[jackarabit]

2MM meters is nothing in itself. Do you feel the vibration thru the handle?

[Bob S.]

Seat rollers, perhaps?

[Carl Watts]

Either the one way bearing in the flywheel needs a little lubrication or possibly the chain rollers inside the frame need some lubrication. These are the only two areas that I have had to sort out over the 16 years of owning a Model C.

The one way has to lock up and release every single stroke. It locks on the drive and will not make any noise unless it slips which you will feel straight away or its not unlocking and rolling on the shaft smoothly and hence is making some noise.

Those chain guide rollers are also dry assembled and later on can make some squeaks and squeals or metal on metal sounds which only showed up during the recovery on mine.

[jackarabit]

Last half of the recovery (and chain return). Hmm. That's the section of chain that is most subject to distortion when the handle gets released while extended, or when the handle gets accidentally dislodged from the keeper on the housing beam and slaps around or against the chain gate. "Ergmeister" (an erg wrench from whom we haven't heard in a while) used to talk about the bow that shows up in abused chains. Wonder if a bowed chain (or one with bent sideplates) might make some noise and maybe vibes thru the handle while engaging the sprocket teeth during retraction?

[Carl Watts]

True there may be partially ceased links in the chain, worth a check by pulling out the chain and seeing if any of the links are stiff. The chain should pivot at each point under its own weight, there should be no friction between the links.

The OP did state the chain looked good however maybe it needs to be checked link by link.

[Joebarbs]

I lubricated the chain roller inside the frame. Didn't fix it.

The chain looks fine to me. No kinks. Each link is moving on its own.

The one way bearing, is it easy to get to? Can I put chain oil on it or should I use some kind of grease?

[jackarabit]

http://www.concept2.com/service/indoor- ... resistance

C2 illustration of flywheel removal at link above. When I removed mine, I had to remove the the black plastic "hubcap" from the side of the hollow beam to get a second box end wrench on the axle nut on that side to restrain the axle shaft from turning in the hanger until the the nut on the inside (unsupported end of axle) breaks loose from the shoulder on the shaft. So two 9/16" box or open ends or adjustable wrenches necessary ime.

The link is disassembly for replacement of a flywheel in which the one way bearing needles or rollers refuse to engage (the "no resistance"condition). Obviously not your problem but lubing just involves laying the flywheel with one way bearing up and flowing 20 wgt oil between the races. I used the mineral oil that C2 supplies as chain oil. I don't know if one or more of the needles might be failing to retract completely into their housings in the inner race and thereby produce a clicking noise. In any case, can't hurt to encourage free movement of the needles by lubing and a good opportunity to clean the lint and dust from the vanes of the flywheel and from the inside of the ss perfmetal exhaust band.