Flywheel brake

Cyclist2 · Post by **Cyclist2** » December 4th, 2009, 7:09 pm

Has anyone ever rigged a brake for the model C or D flywheel? I'm a little surprised that C2 hasn't done that. I brake my model B wheel all the time when doing intervals to get the start practice without having to wait 3 minutes each time for the wheel to stop. I was thinking of mounting a bicycle brake pad on a small rod on the inside of the enclosure with a spring to keep it off the wheel. It would require drilling one small hole through the enclosure. Any thoughts?

Citroen · Post by **Citroen** » December 4th, 2009, 9:01 pm

Shove the damper up to ten and it'll slow down quicker. Shove it back to your desired position just before starting each interval.

Can't see any need for additional braking, it would just complicate the mechanism.

El Caballo · Post by **El Caballo** » December 5th, 2009, 3:51 am

I don't see how it would hurt setting up a brake, as long as there is no contact with the flywheel while rowing. I wouldn't want to mess around with the damper all the time (the way my erg is setup I'd be tripping all over my computer and computer monitor cords), so I think setting up some sort of brake as you describe would be a better alternative. I personally wouldn't do it, but that doesn't mean you can't.

Tinus · Post by **Tinus** » December 5th, 2009, 4:30 pm

A brake might alter the weight of the flywheel either by adding rubber to the surface or by wear of the flywheel. Keeping the flywheel at the exact weight is important for the computer monitor which assumes a certain weight in order to determine the distance.

It may be a minor point which makes setting up a brake is hurting but so is setting up a brake a minor improvement as well. A nice thing about the concept2 is it's minimalistic design and features: keep it simple (but good).

Cyclist2 · Post by **Cyclist2** » December 5th, 2009, 8:01 pm

I got the design all figured out; it is possible and fairly easy with simple parts. However, I can't reach the flywheel when I'm strapped in, and unstrapping each interval would be almost as time consuming and inconvenient. I guess I'll use my model B when I want lots of short, off-the-line intervals. Good mental drill, though...

jamesg · Post by **jamesg** » December 6th, 2009, 1:13 am

Does it really take 3 minutes for your flywheel to stop? On my C I think it's around 20s at damper 3. This would be of interest only if doing Tabatas (20s on, 10s off); but I don't do these and if I did I wouldn't mind the flying start at all.

Usually intervals are 2-3 minutes so that the HR can get a bit below range, plenty for the wheel to stop.

Start practice is useful of course, but more to see what's best done rather than as training. It only takes 3 or 4 tests to see what gets thing moving soonest with least long term damage.

johnlvs2run · Post by **johnlvs2run** » December 6th, 2009, 10:05 pm

My model B, C and D flywheels all took about 3 1/2 minutes to stop.

I did stop the model B flywheel for 50m sprints with 80s rests, but it was too much trouble.
Most of the slowdown comes at the beginning of the recovery anyway.

Stopping or not stopping the flywheel did not make any noticable difference to my times.

snowleopard · Post by **snowleopard** » December 8th, 2009, 10:25 am

A brake needn't work on the flywheel, it could work on the shaft.

SirWired · Post by **SirWired** » December 8th, 2009, 2:39 pm

While it does take a long time for the flywheel to come to a complete stop, the speed it retains after 30 seconds or so is low enough that it should not have any meaningful affect on your results outside of an actual race.

SirWired