Concept2 Forum

I'm 32, 5'11" My last 5K I rowed at a 2:08 pace I can't even imagine rowing at 40 spm, but then I am a relative beginner and making the effort to be very conscious of my technique on each stroke. Maybe in fact this is another reason I tending to row slowly: because I being very deliberate in my move...

I'm at 127 which is as low as I can get my model B with speed ring. I don't know what I used to row in the gym as I never checked the drag factor itself but I would normally row with the dampener at 6 on (fairly old) model Cs and Ds. I'm also using the smaller sprocket as I've replaced it and my cha...

It really depends on what you're trying to achieve. If it's a TT / PB attempt then ideally yes, you should be rowing at 28+, but it also depends on how you can make yourself the most efficient you can possibly be as you might be better able to utilise strength instead of aerobic fitness. I figured ...

I don't see anything abnormal going on in the video, but if you like the block in place it isn't going to do any harm. If the clutch is working I wouldn't replace it. You might consider cleaning and lubing it- WD40 or equivalent solvent to clean, then some 20 weight oil or very light grease to lube...

I've been rowing as part of cross fit for a while now and with the lock down have pulled out my own rower and focusing almost exclusively on rowing for the time being. I'm doing some research to improve technique and programming and shocked to see that the recommended stroke rate is 24-30 spm. I was...

I wanted to replace the bearings, they (and that large sprocket) are the only moving parts left to swap out. I didn't think they were available but I just wasn't looking hard enough they are totally listed in the correct part of the online store. I don't see a replacement part for the bearing clutch...

Sure...

https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/msas ... G_5546.mov

Regarding the issue of the arms pinching the axle, there's a better solution to that. Looking at the 4 large main frame bolts that attach the footplates and arms to the monorail, if you loosen the top forward nut and bolt a bit and tighten the rearmost bottom nut and bolt the arms will come apart. ...

I got it up and running today finally! I didn't manage to get the larger sprocket off, so I'm just running with the smaller sprocket for now (although the larger one does still run pretty well). I'm hoping that I can get a model b axel from Concept UK but they don't sell them online and they are not...

So my new sprocket removal tool came and even with the heat it wasn't enough. I managed to get the small cog off by using the larger one for purchase. So I now have an assembled rower with new chain new small cog and new skewer assembly. To be fair the larger old cog runs pretty well, but the smalle...

The best way of holding the sprocket was with the use of an old chain wrapped round the sprocket and offset (side by side) in the jaws of a vice and done up as hard as possible. This is a great tip thanks, I hadn't though of this and I still have the old chain lying around. I'm not sure how much it...

This is definitely an improvement I will make after I've got it up and running.

Thanks guys

c2jonw wrote: ↑

April 6th, 2020, 8:16 am

It's a right hand thread. Heat and penetrating oil should get it. I've removed dozens of them. JonW

Any tips for not breaking the fly wheel cog? or just a case of don't apply too much pressure and more oil and heat?

Carl Watts wrote: ↑

April 6th, 2020, 7:39 am

Personally wouldn't waste alot of time on it just buy a new sprocket and axle.

Yeah me too but they don't sell Model B axles online, maybe over the phone but Concept UK aren't taking orders over the phone at the minute.

The manual says turn counter clockwise and certainly the threads on the replacements I have are standard thread.

I've ordered some WD-40 specialist penetrant and a blow torch.