Concept2 Forum

Personally I would sell the C and keep the A. (I know you already put the A on CL, just making a point). I have a A in my garage, and row on an E at one of my gyms, and I pull about the same times. I don't really see/feel any difference in resistance between the two. Only difference is with the A th...

Ok thanks. Didn't know the drag factor was so high on the B. The seller also has a pm4 he's willing to sell me for extra. I'm assuming the way he's going he'll ask full price (310) bringing the total to $805 lol.

Ok is all that stuff he said true? Does a model B have a greater range than a D?

I'm looking for a model D rower and found this listing for $495, but the seller didn't put the model number. So I emailed them and got this reply: "It is a classic model that is preferred by many rowers for its smooth and solid feel because it is made of all metal parts, unlike the new ones that hav...

Interesting, thanks Jon! As a UX Designer that story reverberates with me. Don't always go for the obvious 1st solution. ALTHOUGH after some research and trying out different variations, that 1st solution sometimes turns out to be the best...

BTW maybe a dumb question, but we all know about the Concept2. What's the Concept1? Is it a backpack? An oar? A prototype to the Model A? A crazy guy locked in the basement in Vermont? I've been wondering about that.

Here's another funny quote: "The chain is fairly well enclosed, and unless you were to wrap it around your neck for some odd reason, it's safe." I like that someone even thought of that! How many of us have accidentally wrapped the chain around our necks while rowing? I know I almost have a couple t...

I love my Concept II as much as anyone, but fantasize about one day upgrading my Model A to a Model D. So I was practically rolling on the floor laughing while reading some of these review comments. Some people are so clueless! And some of these have obviously never even tried rowing on one: "The Co...

After first poplar handle broke, made another 25" (what the heck) handle out of oak, 1 1/8" diameter, the only width they had at the local hardware store. Got friend to drill a more precise, centered hole for the 1/2" thick metal cylinder that attaches to the chain, along with small channel for the ...

So I've replaced the handle with a super wide 25" poplar handle, 1 1/4" in diameter. Things were going well until I pulled a little too hard and it cracked in the middle, where I drilled the giant 1/2" hole. So next up I'll get an oak dowel, 1 1/2" diameter and cut it shorter so it's stronger and th...

I took three "vanes" or black plastic cards out of the flywheel, thanks Bob S. So now down to 6 vanes. This lowered the drag so much I was able to drop the chain from sprocket 5 to sprocket 4. I can now row for more than 8 minutes without petering out because of rowing the equivalent of a brick ;) N...

Thanks Carl, I turned on the drag factor with your magic trick ;). Now although the drag factor displays, it jumps between 20 and 350 for each stroke! It looks like it depends on how hard and fast it's rowed (of course). So I'm not sure how useful that would be, unfortunately, unless I calibrate mys...

I didn't know you could change the input option for a different Model! I'll try that tonight and report back. Yes, the retrofit kit has a 3 magnet pick up. Update: No, the PM3 does not have anyway to access/change the info about what Model it is. However I see the firmware is "311". I'll look into f...

Thanks guys. Unfortunately the Model A doesn't allow the drag factor to show on the PM3, it seems. I looked everywhere and couldn't find it. Does anyone know if there's a firmware update that would help?

FYI it works! I installed the PM3 retrofit kit to the Model A, plugged in the RowPro, and it works! I'm using the largest sprocket, as the "drag factor" seems pretty high. No idea what it is of course, but it feels like I'm rowing a rowboat. Guess I should clean 30 years of gunk off the chain huh?